| HAIRCARE | INDUSTRY INSIDER


your iron and ferritin (stored iron) levels are good is also essential. Deficiencies in either of these can cause various problems such as hair loss and brittle hair.' In 2013, the Philip Kingsley clinics saw


an average growth rate of 15.5%, with an average 30 new consultations per week and a total of 130 treatments per week. This rising popularity has also


transposed the hairdressing market, which is showing greater demand for extra training from trichologists. 'More salons want training in how to best take care of their clients’ hair; we hold teaching academies for 2 days every 4–6 weeks', according to founder Philip Kingsley. His eponymous product line has left


the specialist shelves of clinics and is taking over pharmacies, drugstores, and even department stores. In July, Kingsley launched Tricho 7 — a new holistic three- step protocol to care for hair and scalp. Combining zinc sulphate, azelaic acid, and B6, these ingredients work together to create an ideal scalp environment for healthy hair. The formula is rich in antioxidants, has soothing effects, protects against environmental degradation, and immediately gives the appearance of more volume with increased density improvement over time. The kit contains three products: 'Volumizing Protein Spray: Hair Density Formula', 'Volumizing Hair & Scalp Treatment Daily Scalp Drops', and 'Hair Nutrition Formula'. The more holistic approaches tend to


focus on natural and organic ingredients. Trichologist guru Ricardo Vila Nova only uses natural ingredients such as biotin, zinc, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, protein, and trace elements.


Scalp: the new face One of the most sought-after treatments for patients are those targeting the health of the scalp. After all, a healthy scalp equals healthy hair. 'Many people with hair loss complain of


burning and itching in scalp and that is part of the inflammatory process,' Dr Sadick says. 'Chronic inflammation leads to long term lack of functional fibroses, so if you have inactivity of growing healthy cells, they die, and that leads to hair fall out, therefore, if you can cut down the inflammatory cycle then you can cut down hair loss.' Masks, serums, toners, and other products that aim to exfoliate the scalp


There is no ‘one-stop’ fix for thinning hair. Rather, hair health


is a by-product of the patient’s energy, nutrition, stress, endocrine system, genetic makeup, and androgenic sensitivity.


are among the most popular on the market, while more treatments in clinics and hair dressers are also appearing under the ‘scalp facial’ tag.


Products: the camouflage Those not willing to go into surgery, or for those occasions when it does not work, can find consolation in an increase array of camouflage products, such as artificial hair fibres, powder applicators or even permanent micro-pigmentation. 'I recommend a number of hair


camouflages like Toppik, Bumble and Bumble spray, and Joan Rivers compact applicator,' according to Dr Rogers, who works at the Old Metairie Dermatology, Hair Restoration of the South. 'These help reduce the contrast between hair colour and scalp colour, while we are waiting for the medications to work, or for the hair to grow in after hair transplant surgery.'


Conclusion Despite the growing sophistication in research and techniques, thinning hair remains a big concern for men and women worldwide. Surgery and other non-invasive techniques constitute a robust market for practitioners that has shown steady growth despite the financial crisis. Still, further breakthroughs are avidly awaited by patients that will help avoid


the loss of their crowning glory, and the subsequent emotional stress it implies. Cloning is one area where many MDs


are looking to for hope. 'More and more research is being done in the area of hair cloning. When we are able to successfully regrow 1000 or 10 000 hair follicles from a single biopsy, this will be amazing', says Dr Rogers. 'This will allow us to help many more people than we currently can with existing techniques. That being said, cloning is still probably at least 10 to 20 or more years away.'


The author would like to thank the


professionals who agreed to be interviewed for this article: Dr Bessam Farjo, UK Philip Kingsley, UK Dr Nicole Rogers, USA Dr Neil Sadick, USA Dr Izabela Tilszer, Poland Ricardo Vila Nova, UK Dr Craig Ziering, USA


References


1. Relevant Research, Inc. International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery: 2013 Practice Census Results. International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery: Geneva, IL; 2013.


prime-journal.com | July/August 2014 


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