My experience was so much at odds with these comments that I sought an interview with the Hotel Director rather than head off for an excursion to Delphi from the port of Itea. The Oracle might have prophesied in the nearby Temple of Apollo, but I wanted to hear what Nelson Trindade had to say. The Portuguese-born Hotel Director
was both charismatic and dynamic. Since gaining a degree in Tourism and Hotel Management at Bordeaux, he has worked at the prestigious Connaught Hotel in London, Pierre Kaufman’s venerable Tante Claire restaurant and the celebrated temple of gastronomy, Chez Max.
H
e then chose a career at sea with Cunard and Windstar before heading to Renaissance Cruises.
One of his most impressive credentials is being part of the team that introduced ‘Freestyle Dining’ to NCL. Before joining Paul Gauguin, he was Food & Beverage Director, and latterly Hotel Director, at Disney Cruise Line. During our frank discussion, he admit- ted there had been initial teething troubles with the vessel and pointed out, with the benefit of hindsight, launching in such an unusual destination was not the most practical option. However, he stressed the company now uses Intersupply Shipstores BV of Rotterdam for its weekly victualing. He also highlighted that all meat is from the US and lamb from New Zealand. In many ports, he takes the Execu-
tive Chef to local markets for fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood, cheeses and local
specialities. With more than 30 top-quality olive oils in La Veranda Restaurant, this is no idle boast. During my week on board I could find no substantiation for the vitri- olic criticism heaped on Tere Moana.
The Cruise The Ionian Islands are a drowned moun- tain range running from the bottom of the Adriatic to the Peloponnese. With its amphitheatrical setting, Váthy – the largest village in Ithaca – is one of the largest natural harbours in the world. I spent a relaxing morning wandering past tiled-roofed white houses that line the port where fishing boats bobbed in the soporific heat. My thoughts turned to reverie in this reputed setting for Homer’s epic poems, the Iliad and the Odyssey. After lunch we navigated this pattern of islands heading for Cephalonia, the locale for Louis de Bernières’ best-selling tragic- comedy Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. As we approached the impossibly-pretty village of Fiskardo by Zodiac, my camera lens was filled with the image of roses, carna- tions, geraniums, antirrhinums, valerian and bougainvillea merging into a torrent of pointillist colour. Rather than take the island tour that vis- ited the village of Assos with its Venetian fortress, I wandered past colourful caïques nudging several psarotavernes (fish restau- rants) where villagers and visitors alike sat at cafés drinking strong black Greek coffee and taking in the action, such as there was. That afternoon, as we began a westerly navigation for Sicily, our amiable Croatian
captain informed us he had revised our schedule for the forthcoming days and added a call at Capri; this was met with universal approval by the Americans, Ca- nadians, Australians and Brits on board. Later that night, I was invited to his table in a prime position on the aft deck of the Verandah Restaurant. Captain Rajko Zupan had been in command of the Paul Gauguin in Tahiti from 2004 until 2012; prior to that he had been with Ocean Cruise Lines as well as serving on the Marco Polo.
H
is cogent views about Tere Moana left no one in any doubt. “This is the best small ship in the world,”
he asserted. “We have a unique opportu- nity to infuse special elements that deliver well above expectation. “We can achieve an intrinsic style of hospitality thanks to our highly profes- sional crew. Our itineraries are unlike any other cruise company and we are still fine- tuning them to ensure we offer charming ports that other small ships never visit.”
Autumn 2013 I WORLD OF CRUISING 47
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