Modeling a WAG ex-B&O O-59 gondola
bars that bridge under the centersill. (See the underbody photo.) These addi- tions sit on top of the rivets of the cross bars and should align with edge of the cross bar’s rivet side. Use a gel cyano- acrylate to attach these. The proto- type’s long angle bars were simulated using .030″ square styrene strips cut to fit from outer edge to outer edge, re- spectively, of the first and ninth added cross bars. An alternative is ¹₃₂″ brass angle bar but, considering that only a silhouette is needed, the styrene was deemed acceptable.
The car is now ready to be re- equipped with brake gear. Cut, fit, and glue a .060″ thick styrene block to lower the brake cylinder so that it is just be- low flush of the side sills when glued back into it’s old location. Before gluing, drill the cut end of the chain and the two brake rod clevises with a No. 80 drill to accept new brake rods. Drill out the back side of the cylinder to receive a new .012″ pipe from the triple valve. Drill through to allow for latitude in forming the supply pipe. Replace the triple valve with any suitable one on hand. Its mounting should be such that it is just flush with the side sill and lo- cated as found on the model. Drill it to
Bulb angle reinforcement: made from two 1″×4″ styrene strips
receive the formed supply pipe from the cylinder. (Again, see the underbody pho- to.) From any suitable source (resin kits often have spares) fit a new lever for the rodding connecting to the A-end truck. Something representing the slack ad- juster is needed; see the sidebar and sketch for how to render this. This is glued to the unmodified portion of the
crossbearer closest to the slack adjuster rachet found on the outside of the car. This new 36″ long floating lever’s out- board end is anchored to the slack ad- juster’ loop. The lever’s inboard end con- nects to the brake rod that connects to the A-end truck. The central brake rod (.012″ rod) connects to the brake cylin- der’s lever. (See the underbody photos
Modeling the slack adjuster L
et’s face it: all of our modeling efforts are only visual gim- micks intended to fool the eye. This is especially so with brake gear; the air hoses don’t conduct pressure, cylinders
rarely actuate, and our retainers are never turned up. Much of the underside equipment hides in shadows and is almost never seen if it is even there. The slack adjuster under the O-59 fits this narra- tive; it sits up under the floor and is covered from view by the low slung side. However, if something is needed to hold in place the left end of that 36″ “A” end lever, why not at least mimic the shape if not the precise construction? It might not take that much more time to make a modest effort to do the former as opposed to something completely unlike the prototype. The slack adjuster here is comprised of two common pieces of styrene shapes and one short length of .010″ brass wire. See the sketch. Fit a short length of .035″ or .040″ diameter styrene rod be- tween the sides of a .100″ channel. Glue this to an untrimmed length so you have a “handle” to help hold the growing assembly. When the glue has set up, trim the 7″ bevel at the crossbeam end and drill two No. 80 holes in the corners against the take-up drum (rod). Form a representation of the take-up chain from the wire forming the loop (on which sits the lever) around a .032″ diameter wire or some small tipped jewelers pliers. Sufficiently offset from the loop, form two 90 degree bends to fit the drum when the “legs” are inserted into the two No. 80 holes. The intention should be to have the center of the loop approximately 14 scale inches from the centerline of the drum. This dimension isn’t critical as wear would see this nominal dimension reduced. Trim the channel to length af- ter setting everything with cyanoacrylate. Trim the wire (legs) equal to the height of the truncated cross-bearer so they help position the assembly level when glued in place. It is positioned 23 scale inches from the outer side surface and the drum should align with the center of the ratchet on the outside of the car. Use the loop to
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position the brake lever to construct the remaining lever-rod as- sembly. A slight vertical repositioning of the “chain” loop helps get the lever into proper relationship with the lever hangers.–MIKE SCHLEIGH
Slack adjuster for Tangent Scale Models HO scale B&O O-59 gondola
Center on exterior ratchet
14″ Scale .100″ Channel
.030″ Dia. approx.
Centerline ¹₈″
7″ Scale bevel
.035″ or .040″ Dia. styrene rod Crossbeam .010″ Brass wire
Underside of steel floor
OCTOBER 2013
23″ Scale to outside of car
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