Detailing a DL&W F7 Leslie A200 air horn kit. First,
I
plugged the square holes left in the roof from the old horns with some scrap styrene. A little Squadron putty and some sanding made the square holes
nearly undetectable. I drilled
mounting holes for the new horns and secured them with cyanoacrylate. The last rooftop detail that I wanted to add was the unique-looking antenna. This antenna looks just like a nail, and I ended up using an Atlas track nail with the round head filed flat. I trimmed its length, making it a little shorter, and drilled a mounting hole in the roof just ahead of the horns. Once again, a dab of cyanoacrylate on the in- side of the roof was all that was needed to hold it in place. The rear of the carbody doesn’t real- ly get much detail added. One part which I did add was the back up light. This is mounted about midway up the rear of the engine on the fireman’s side. I used a Detail Associates ditch light for this. It just looked right to me. There is an angled flange on the ditch light mounting bracket which I filed
Once the decals were applied, details like the nose light, number board and grab rails were added. The classification lights were painted with flat aluminum. The nose grab irons are not the original Bachmann grabs. The originals were too thick, so the author bent his own. The nose light is a Details West part which is available from the Erie Lack- awanna Historical Society. The nose number plate was made from scrap styrene.
The kick plate at the cab ladder is painted with flat aluminum. The steps are also highlighted with Engine Black and yellow step edges. The grab rails are made from phosphor bronze wire. The “nail” type antenna on the roof is actually an Atlas track nail with the head filed flat (left). The grab rails at the rear of the unit (right) are also phos-
smooth. After doing that, I just used a little cyanoacrylate to attach the light assembly to the carbody. At the bottom of the carbody there is a spot for mounting m.u. hoses.
Details West
white metal m.u. hoses are a favorite of mine. The white metal hoses are flexi- ble and hold their shape nicely. You can make them do anything you like. I at- tached these with a little cyanoacrylate and then bent the hoses so they would have a little curvature to them. Hoses are seldom straight. This was as far as I wanted to go
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phor bronze wire. Note the small number at the base of the shell in the black stripe. These numbers are applied right over the rivets and are difficult but necessary. There is some black paint showing around the etched stainless grilles. The author discovered that the outer edge of the grilles should be painted gray instead of black.
with detailing before paint was ap- plied. Adding more detail would make masking colors more difficult. The first color I painted was the gray. Lack- awanna gray is a very light gray, very similar to CB&Q gray. I mixed my own gray using Polly Scale Undercoat Light Gray, Polly Scale EL Gray and Polly Scale New Gravel Gray. The ratio is 3:1:1, respectively. After painting the whole carbody gray, the next color I ap- plied was Polly Scale Engine Black. The roof, pilot and bottom edge of the body are painted black. I used Tamiya
masking tape for all paint masking. It is flexible and sticks very well to paint- ed surfaces. There is also very little paint bleed under the tape. If there is any paint bleed it can be touched up by brush. After the body was painted I shot it with a coat of Polly Scale Clear Gloss. This will create a good surface for the decals to adhere.
The application of decals is next once the paint dries. The nose striping of a Lackawanna freight unit can be chal- lenging. If the curvature of the nose doesn’t match that of the decal (and
JUNE 2013
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