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plastic glazing and .011″ laser-cut pa- per shingles. Everything is incredibly precise and the tabs holding the pieces to their sheets are so small they are nearly invisible. As an example of the precision of this kit, the windows, which scale to 17″×24″, have muntins that are .017″. That’s just over a scale ¾″, which is perfect. (I remember when Grandt Line windows were first re- leased. We thought they were amazing with .028″ muntins.) The kit was based on a prototype, presumably widely used on the New York Central and affiliated lines that was documented in the December, 1986 Model Railroader with a J. Harold Geissel drawing and a photo of the building in Peekskill, New York. Little structures like this (by style, probably designed between 1885 and 1900) were common through at least the 1940’s and no doubt survived in places decades longer. (I saw a similar struc- ture used as an attendant’s shed in a New Haven parking lot in the late 1970’s.) For my first model, I built the kit ex-
actly as per the instructions, which are very good. I pre-painted all the parts before assembly.
The second time around I modified my approach in a few places. You may want to try some of these options: There’s no need to paint the roof ribs or roof tie. They will be completely hid- den, and the ceiling and roof base can be glued together prior to painting. Similarly, there’s no need to paint the sub-floor and floor prior to assembly. There’s also a ³/₃₂″ thick hexagonal base that should be glued to the sub-floor, aligning the face of the door threshold. Once assembled, this can be painted. The roof ribs and roof tie fit together
so well they can all be assembled with- out glue. It’s a joy, because it goes to- gether just like a little puzzle. This as- sembly can be snapped in place into
the roof base/ceiling assembly; the top roof key (an amazing little hexagon slotted to accept the six roof ribs) snaps onto the top. With a little cyanoacry- late, make the joints solid. Because all of this will be hidden by the roof sheathing, a little visible glue won’t hurt here. Assembled without glue, you don’t have to worry about the glue set- ting before all pieces align. I did need to ease the slots in the roof base and ceiling with a file to receive the tabs of the roof ribs.
After this is assembled, the ceiling and edge of the roof base (which is the visible roof fascia) can be painted. On my second model, I finished off the fas- cia with .015″×.080″ styrene (1″×4″) fascia boards. These provide a smooth fascia over the wood end grain and also project slightly below the soffit, what’s called a “drip,” very typical for proto- type construction. At this point the top cap hex can be drilled with a No. 27 bit for the smokejack.
A nice feature is the scribed guide lines on the outside of the walls and the roof sheathing; they are there as alignment guides for the shingles.
nmra2013.org 86 MAY 2013
2013 RAILROAD TOURS
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