Up on the roof Some proven techniques for building and detailing scratchbuilt roofs/Bob Walker W
ith the exception of those eye- level layouts in the 55 to 66 inch range, the rest of us sort
of look down on our layouts. In my own case, I look down on them in more ways than one. Pun intended, I see much room for improvement, but that’s not this month’s topic. We will get to those so-called improvements later. With the majority of our layouts constructed in the 40 to 54 inch range, most modelers have sort of a bird’s eye view of their creation. Like the human face, the roof structure of our buildings is therefore the most prominent feature of the structure models. I’m not counting the eye-level layouts here, as they have their own unique set of “issues.”
It
stands to reason that the roof, then, needs enough attention as not to em- barrass the builder when compared to the rest of the model. I have been guilty of shortchanging my efforts on the roof in the past and have ended up replacing the darn things. Believe me, it is easier to do well the first time than wrestle with removal and replacement, which usu- ally ends up as a fight involving the use of bad language. Donna says I should do a column on cussing, since I am such a virtuoso, but I countered that RMC is a family magazine, and, as good as I am, it would not be received well by the editors. Taking the time and care necessary to do well the first time is the answer. I must continually remind myself that I am not in a race, and time is of little import when build- ing models you want to be proud of.
PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR
Scratchbuilder’s Corner
As with almost all projects on the railroad, a little forethought is a great deterrent to most blunders. I am a big fan of pre-planning (I should do it more often), and knowing what type of roof a project building is going to sport is a big help. As usual, I’m going to harp on having all the materials on hand be- fore you start. Running out of (pick a material here) mid-project is a royal pain where one sits, and can delay a project indefinitely.
A nameless friend has about 30 starts on a shelf delayed by material shortages. These projects still sit there, not for current lack of the right goods, but the loss of interest in the project it- self. No, it’s not me, though it used to be. He now claims to have enough proj- ects to last him the rest of his life. Some hobby shop owner is going to love this guy when he decides to stock up on all the stuff he’s going to need. Unless you are purposely modeling a sagging roof, proper bracing is a must. Even if you are modeling a sagging roof, shape the bracing to form the sag(s). Bracing serves two basic func- tions: the first is merely for structural strength, while the second can help de- termine the shape of the roof itself. If the roof is to be removable, and there are a few good reasons other than con-
test model interiors to craft it that way, the entire roof becomes a model in and of itself. As is, it merely rests atop the rest of the structure. It must be built in such a way (like carefully) so it fits well to the building, leaving no unsightly gaps that could otherwise be resolved with adhesive and pressure. Gluing down a roof will forgive a few measur- ing errors that will glare back at you if the roof is easily removed. Some build- ings are difficult to just pluck off the layout to get at the interior for things like lighting maintenance (bulb replace- ment) and track cleaning. Any building with a floor and track in it should have a removable roof. If the lighting is locat- ed in the roof, make the attachment to the layout’s lighting system via a small plug of the sort used by locomotive sound systems and the like.
Whenever a roof is more than just two slabs of stock at a single given an- gle, where all that is needed is some minor measuring skills, I make some Strathmore templates. These tem- plates can be easily cut, re-cut, and even replaced, cheaply and quickly. Make a pattern for each section of roof and see how they intersect one anoth- er. Keep fiddling with them until the fit is perfect, then double check the fit be- fore you cut the real roof stock. Use blue painter’s tape rather than the more permanent frosted tape for easier re-positioning. I keep a pad of 11″×14″ two-ply Strathmore®
for just this pur-
pose. I got mine at Dick Blick Art Sup- ply in Galesburg, Illinois. Their website is
www.dickblick.com, and you will be
Rafters can be built easier and with greater precision by using a template. Make a styrene jig for wooden rafters and a wooden jig
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when fabricating styrene rafters. White glue is good for wood roof parts, while solvent type cement is used for styrene parts.
MAY 2013
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