ishes where cutting and filling was done on the body and give an even, overall base for the color coats. Correct anything needing attention. PlastiKote®
is a special primer de-
signed for engineering plastics (the truck sideframes, the diaphragm on the
rear of the FPA-4, hood unit
handrails, etc.). Work outdoors and ap- ply two light coats to such parts. It dries clear, but it should not be sprayed directly onto styrene. (Sandblasting ac- etal resin parts for better paint adhe- sion is not required with this method, but the parts must be clean. If avail- able, sandblasting beforehand is,
of
course, fine.) When the PlastiKote is dry, paint the parts the appropriate color. The final attachment (except for the truck sideframes, which are a press-fit) is facilitated with Microscale Micro-Prep or any equivalent product containing n-heptane. Apply a small amount to the gluing surfaces and al- low it to dry, then follow up with a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate cement while holding the parts in place. Unfortunately, the deep “V” chevron for the nose of Canadian National FA-2 and FPA-4 diesels is not available as a decal, so the green was painted first, then I masked the chevron. Otherwise, I would have followed the typical proce- dure of starting with the lightest color. I used Scalecoat CNR Green on the appro- priate areas of the body, thinning it one part paint to two parts Scalecoat No. 49 thinner and spraying at about 20 p.s.i.
8.
pressure. For those preferring to use acrylics, equivalents for all the CNR col- ors are available from True Line Trains. Masking in preparation for the CNR
Yellow is next. Tamiya masking tape is superior for this type of work, especial- ly where compound curved surfaces are involved. Cut narrow widths by gently pressing a strip onto a sheet of glass and using a straightedge and sin- gle-edge razor blade. Then, using the narrow tape strips, carefully freehand your way through the curves following photos. If the tape buckles a bit in the areas with tight-radius bends, flatten it with a toothpick.
Make a template from .020″ styrene for the nose side separations. I was able
9. 10.
to find an Accu-Cal set for CN and traced the “S”-curve from it. After cutting the plastic and cleaning up the edges, trace the curve onto the Tamiya masking tape. Flip it over to do the other side. Follow a similar procedure for the
black areas on the lower nose that con- tinue onto the lower third of the car- body, then mask for them. Do the Farr grilles last.
After a good week of drying time do the decals in the usual way. Lots of de- cal setting solution (Micro-Set followed by Micro-Sol) and patience will be re- quired to get the middle and bottom stripes to settle down on the riveted batten strips. Take special care to line up the thin black pinstripes on either
These views show the fully painted and detailed model. Note the winterization hatch and radiator shutters in the side view (photo 8); the aluminum trim around the windshield, the windshield wipers, the added grab irons, the new dual headlight and pilot de- tails on the front of the loco (photo 9); and the added back up light, ladder and lift rings on the rear of the model (photo 10).
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN 69
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