ironwork. I used .005″×¹⁄₈″ styrene strip to form the bands around the mast and boom (the ones with rings where blocks are attached are “spi- ders”). Wrap two turns of the strip around the boom at the heel end. When dry, sand the end smooth and square and glue a small piece of .020″ sheet to the end. Sand flush with the profile of the boom. Form the half of the goose- neck that is attached to the boom and glue it in place on the heel end. Using the gooseneck fitting, determine the top and bottom of the boom and draw a light line along the centerline of the top and bottom of the boom for about three feet at the outboard end. Measur- ing from the end of the boom, put a mark at 2′-0″ and 2′-6″. Drill a small hole through the boom, top to bottom, at both locations. Use a new No. 11 blade to cut a shallow groove connect- ing the two holes on both the top and bottom of the boom. This represents the pulley sheave that was built into its end. Next, using some .005″׳₃₂″ strip, form the four bands at the end of the boom. Two are at either side of the notch cut in it, and the other two bands are spaced about 4″ away on both sides. See the drawing. I then drilled holes and, using cyanoacrylate, glued brass wire eyebolts into the boom at the loca- tions for hanging the blocks. The masthead is somewhat simpler.
You can use two bands here, made from .005″׳₃₂″ strip. Place the upper one 12″ from the top of the mast and the second one 12″ below it. Drill the need- ed holes and glue the eyebolts in place.
2.
If you can find suitable cast eyebolts, I would suggest using them instead of wire, as the wire ones are subject to opening if you happen to bump into the stays. (Trust me, I know!) When this is all done, paint the mast and boom red (or to match color of choice for the deckhouse) and the ironwork flat black. If you haven’t already done so, mount the other half of the gooseneck to the base you previously glued to the deck just in front of the mast. When the paint is dry, step the mast, and,
1.
from underneath, glue it in place. Make sure that the eyebolts are orient- ed correctly before the glue dries. It’s tough to do it the next morning. At this point I suggest that you con- sider applying any weathering to the deck of the barge and the deckhouse, as they will be somewhat inaccessible once the rigging is completed. I used pow- dered chalks for my weathering, in sev- eral different shades of gray, and two or three shades of brown. I didn’t want an extremely weather-beaten appearance
1. & 2. These views show the gallows frame supporting the lead-in pulleys in front of the deckhouse. The four falls come down the mast, then, using these pulleys, enter the deckhouse to wind the cables on their respective hoist drums. Needless to say, there was a great deal of strain on this assembly. Also visible is the gooseneck fitting at the foot of the boom. As well as allowing the boom to pivot up and down, this fitting also swiveled, allowing the boom to be swung to either port or starboard as required.
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
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