Building a classic cab unit–the MLW FPA-4: Pt. I
1.
Most of the changes made to the shell can be seen in these photos. 1. Bits of styrene and put- ty were used to fill in unneeded mounting holes and the side portal windows. Farr grilles were added along the tops of the sides. On the roof, new horns, a bell, antenna, lift rings, an exhaust stack and a steam generator air intake and vent were added. Note the cutouts on the roof where the exhaust fan goes and below it on the sides where the radiator shutters will go. 2. The nose received new grab irons, and the nose door contour has been built up with styrene and putty. Styrene was also used to fashion the m.u. receptacle covers on both sides of the headlight, fill in the lower portion of the pilot opening and step wells and create the cut release handle brackets. 3. This close up shows the sun shade and the grab iron near the cab windows. 4. The end details include a new ladder, grab irons, lift rings, m.u. hose mounting brackets and cut levers. Note the hole where the backup light will be installed and the conduit leading to it. Also note the cooling coil above it, which should have been removed.
Remove the middle set of steps but
leave the integral lower handrail mounting lugs. The new fuel tank cast- ing, to be added to the chassis later, in- corporates two step treads. If one of the steps breaks, repair it by drilling into each leg and the corresponding body lo- cations for a wire reinforcing pin se- cured with a drop of glue. The pre-colored,
acetal resin handrails are a bit oversize and can
look artificial because they tend to curl slightly or acquire a “set.” Unless paint- ed or sandblasted their shine is also ob- jectionable. Use them as a pattern to form new handrails; I prefer Tichy .0-125″ phosphor bronze wire, as most straight brass wire generally available to modelmakers is too soft for this appli- cation. A pair of jeweler’s wire looping pliers with conical tips is very handy for making the curved bends at the bottom
2.
3.
ends of the side handrails, and regular smooth-jaw (not serrated-jaw) pliers are best for making the 90-degree mounting “pins” at the ends. The m.u. receptacle covers,
bracket for the m.u. hoses (mounted on the right hand side only as originally
5. This view shows the rear of the FPA-4’s roof. Note the styrene exhaust stack, the steam generator air intake and vent, the added pipe and the grab iron. 6. The winter- ization hatch was built out of styrene and installed behind the exhaust stack and just in front of the radiator fan.
the
6.
5. 46 JANUARY 2013
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