Arts & Culture
Gl Hollywoodamour
Waterfront takes a look at Hollywood Costume, the Victoria & Albert exhibition that showcases some of the most iconic outfi ts in cinema history
to hang on the accomplishment of this unquestionably challenging task. When they succeed, we feel convinced by and connected to their character and we praise their versatility and sincerity. Much is then made of the capability of the actor but it is not this alone that makes a successful and memorable fi lm. It is easy to overlook the impact of costume in the world of fi lm-making but when we consider this concept we realise that clothing and identity are, in fact, closely linked. From October until the end of January 2013, the Victoria and Albert Museum are devoting three galleries to an exhibition that explores this link, explaining the central role of costume design as an essential tool of cinema storytelling. Curated by Hollywood costume designer
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Deborah Nadoolman Landis, guest curator Sir Christopher Frayling and V&A assistant curator Keith Lodwick, the exhibition showcases over one hundred of the most well-known and loved
ctors are often praised for their ability to faultlessly transform themselves into a character and much of a fi lm’s success seems
costumes from over a century of fi lm-making. It takes the form of a three-gallery journey, taking spectators from early Charlie Chaplin silent pictures to the motion capture costume design for Avatar. T e fi rst section, entitled Act One: Deconstruction, introduces the role of the costume designer and takes a look at the process involved in creating the unique individuals in the fi lm script, whatever the genre. Films such as Fight Club and Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost Ark serve as case studies to show how the costume designer goes about the research process. T is is illustrated through the use of designs and sketches, photographs of costume fi ttings, budget breakdowns and script pages showing dialogue that unveils character defi ning clues. In this fascinating fi rst act, visitors will gain real insight into the crucial fi rst steps of the design process. T e second act, Dialogue, examines the
creative collaboration between fi lmmakers, actors and costume designers. T is section of the exhibition explores four director/designer pairings using archival fi lm footage and specially commissioned interviews. Case studies focus on high profi le collaborations such as that between
Alfred Hitchcock and Edith Head, who worked together on 11 fi lms including T e Birds. T is fascinating section also delves into the relationship between social and technological evolution and costume design. T e innovations in technology since the initial black and white silent fi lms and the undulating social backdrop in the years that followed have meant that fi lm-making and, indeed, costume design are processes that have to constantly reinvent themselves. T is second instalment of the exhibition concludes with the ‘Art of Becoming’: two case studies on the award-winning Robert Di Niro and Meryl Streep. In specially-commissioned interviews both actors discuss the importance of costume in the development of a range of their characters, highlighting the important role costume plays in helping them to ‘become’ their character. Five costumes from each of their most famous roles will be on view. T e exhibition end with Act T ree: Finale,
which presents the best known costumes in cinema history. T is thrilling spectacle of legendary heroes and femme fatales will showcase the costumes of seductive sirens such as Roxie Hart in Chicago, Catherine Tramell in Basic Instinct and superheroes outfi ts like the high-tech suit for Batman in T e Dark Knight Rises. Harry Potter fans will be happy to see Judianna Makovsky’s uniform design for the house of Gryffi ndor while lovers of Marilyn Monroe can gaze upon the sheer white chiff on cocktail dress worn by the actress in Some Like it Hot. T is incredible selection of iconic designs shows off the most memorable costumes, characters and stories that have, for generations, inspired fashion trends and enriched popular culture all around the world.
For more information visit
www.vam.ac.uk 15
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