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it ormend it”, hewrote in August 1895. Although the architectural quality of


the country retreats decreased as nearedOxford, the great loop of the Thames north and south around WythamHill – past Binsey (whose poplars the Victorian poet Gerard ManleyHopkins lamented) and the medieval vista of Port Meadow, with its herds of cattle and flocks of geese – did much to restore our spirits. On the second day, following an


excellent picnic supper at Iffley Lock, we pressed on with new crew members and two fewermiles to row than the day before. Broadly designed to span between camping spots, the itinerary also ensured that distances got shorter as theweekwent on. Welcoming our dedicated rowing


tutor Lucy also dramatically improved the crew’s performance, and by 5pm wewere rowing, together with current Scholars Boris, Jo and Harry, through the golden sunset at Wallingford, finally mooring up in a tiny bay near Cholsey. We were beginnning to appreciate the freedomthat a small boat brings, and the details of the river which would be missed fromthe land. Having learnt how tricky it is to


control a skiff – particularly in narrow


INDEED MUCH OF THE UPPER THAMES


DEVOTION TO KELMSCOTT.


UNDERSTAND MORRIS’S


‘ITWAS EASY TO


HAVE ESCAPED MORRIS’S


APPEARS TO


locks where oars cannot be used and co-ordination with every crew-member vital – it was ironic that the third day, when the crew was reduced to a bare minimum of three, was also thewettest. Despite constant work at the oars or the rudder,we stillmanaged to appreciate the impressivewooded gorge at Goring, and arrived, damp but punctual, at the island where we had kindly been given permission to camp by Shiplake College. Three new crewappeared through the gathering dusk and cooked a verywelcome barbecue.


FEARS FOR ITS DEMISE’


IN the days that followed the Thames became steadily wider and busier. Reaching an estimated top speed of 5mph along the Henley straight (and comparing the “Stella” to the crews practising for the regatta), our progress along the river was very slowand steady. Yet as we passed Cliveden in its ravine, Windsor Castle and Eton, then on to Laleham and under the M25 motorway, it was a pleasure to find that the Thames still forms a green corridor right into the heart of London – thronged with trees and busywith moorhen, coot, grebe, shag, duck and swan. However crowded the riverbank, there were always bays that gave us


Cornerstone, Vol 32, No 3 2011 13


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