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L OCAL LIVING


District


9 DC


ACOOK’S GARDEN From ooze to ahs! Harvesting tomato seeds by Barbara Damrosch


Nobody ever told me that farming was a glamorous way of life, and it’s just as well they didn’t. The first commercial crop I was ever responsible for, at my first farm job, was a field of rotting tomatoes. None were being grown for food, only for the preservation of their seeds, to be cleaned and sold to a seed company. Each day I would


gather the squishy ones with the white scum beginning to form, load them into buckets and dump them into large barrels. When they were soft and putrid enough, I would mash them vigorously with a heavy iron tamper, let them ooze for a


few more days, then clean them and spread them on screens to dry. The only things that smelled worse were the cucumbers that I tackled next. Honestly, I got used to it. But now that it is September and seed-saving time, I marvel at how much more pleasant it is to save just enough seed for a home crop of eating tomatoes, or even a modest commercial one. As long as the variety you save is open-pollinated (as most heirloom tomatoes are), they will probably breed true to seed and can be saved for the following year’s planting. Taking the best


BIGSTOCK


Save seeds from this year’s best tomatoes for next year.


tomatoes from a number of plants of that variety will give you a good genetic mix, and they needn’t be rotten, just ripe. Cut the fruits in


half at their waistlines, and squeeze their seeds into a labeled container such as a glass jar. (Eat what’s left!) Add several inches of water to the jar and set it aside, out of direct sunlight but in a warm spot. A flotilla of fungal matter will


form after a few days, but you may cover the jar to avoid the smell, deter fruit flies and prevent a tidy family member from throwing out the whole thing. Keep the lid loose, though, to encourage the fermentation that is the key to this little operation. The gel coating that has kept the seeds from germinating will break down, and any good, viable seeds will sink to the bottom. Stir from time to time. After no more than five days, spoon off and discard the moldy debris on the surface, and pour off the water. Add fresh water to the seeds, stir and let them settle again. Do this until the seeds are clean, then drain them well in a


fine strainer and spread them on a screen or a plate so that they’ll dry quickly, out of the sun. When they are absolutely dry and are easily separated with your fingers, they can be stored in an airtight jar or plastic bag and will keep for at least five years.


If you’ve grown tomatoes


before, you know that they germinate readily, grow vigorously and produce fruits — and seeds — in great abundance. The fact that tomato seeds are so easy to save makes them ideal gifts to stick into an envelope and send to faraway relatives and friends. Come spring, up will come these tiny pieces of your garden, sprung out of muck, manure, rot and decay. Not much glamour in that, but a bit of poetry, yes.


localliving@washpost.com


Damrosch is a freelance writer and the author of “The Garden Primer.”


BIGSTOCK Fall beauty: Fountain grass.


Late-season annuals and perennials can be added to flower beds now to rejuvenate tired displays for another six to eight weeks of show. Daisy-like Korean


chrysanthemums add a lot of punch, along with Mexican bush sage, purple fountain grass, asters and petunias. — Adrian Higgins


Higgins’s gardening column will return next week. Follow @adrian_higgins on Twitter, and read his Groundwork posts Mondays on the All We Can Eat blog, at www.washingtonpost. com/allwecaneat.


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THE WASHINGTON POST • THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2010

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