on the yellow-brick wall and a “rusted” pressed-tin ceiling, feels as if it has been around for decades rather than mere months. Old movies are beamed onto the front wall by a faux-antique projector suspended from the center of the ceiling. Neat touch: The films, which have included “Singing in the Rain,” “Some Like It Hot” and “A Streetcar Named Desire” on my visits, come with captions. They have to, really, since the roar of the crowd would drown out the audio. Ted’s is not the place for a quiet night away from home. The restaurant is, however, a fine
spot for some old-fashioned cooking. James Beard and June Cleaver could have been consultants on the menu, which runs to egg salad and tuna sandwiches, roast chicken and satisfying spaghetti topped with jawbreaker-size meatballs, a kicky tomato sauce and rafts of Texas toast. Sirloin, fried in a buttermilk batter and dolloped with peppery white gravy is a true comfort. The meatloaf is two soft slabs brushed with a bright-red sauce of ketchup, brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce that ricochets from zesty to sweet. Like most of the main dishes, this one comes with a choice of two sides. Soft-cooked green beans and whipped potatoes nicely rounded out my plate. But I would have been just as pleased eating the entree with a couple of Ted’s other options: Brussels sprouts tricked out with bacon and blue cheese, and textbook-perfect macaroni and cheese paved in airy and golden bread crumbs and delivered in a tiny cast- iron skillet. Appetizers consist mostly of soups
or salads. The former — minestrone, chili — are too hearty for what has been a blazing summer, but I look forward to reengaging with the chicken noodle soup come fall or my next cold. The bowl is generous with shreds of
chicken, carrots and flat, stamp-size noodles. Homey stuff. Ted’s super-size salads are best shared. An abundant “Italian” barge sailed to the table laden with chopped iceberg lettuce scattered with yellow peppers, bits of salami, cheese cubes and olives, plus that thick toast. Four of us were able to graze on the bounty. The Sloppiest Joe is an apt name
for the mound of ground beef, red pepper and more heaped on a griddled sesame seed bun. But you’d better eat the behemoth with the pickles that ride shotgun on the plate, because the meat verges on cloying. I’m partial to the hamburgers, offered eight ways and flanked by hot, hand-cut fries. Ted’s catch of the day (“hopefully
fish,” jokes the menu) tastes more like 2010 and gives the chef a chance to strut a bit. One night’s special, grilled swordfish with bright pickled vegetables, also balances a food selection that tilts to what’s heavy. Except for their
Spaghetti includes meatballs the size of jawbreakers.
fruit, the pies aren’t as memorable as the cakes, which include a super-moist carrot cake and another sure to appeal to fans of Reese’s Pieces: Layers of chocolate cake and peanut butter frosting make an
irresistible wedge. I’ve had both cheerleaders and
deers-in-headlights for servers, and my preference is for the former. Twice I’ve had problems significant enough to get (sympathetic) managers involved: a warm red wine that took so long to cool down that my party had almost finished our appetizers by the time the bottle was returned to the table, and a misguided entree whose replacement took forever to show up. Oh, the wait wasn’t that bad. At
least I had the company of Gene Kelly and Debbie Reynolds.
Ask Tom will return.
THAIPHOON Real Thai Cuisine
Dupont Circle
2011 S Street, NW, Washington, DC 20009 Tel: 202.667.3505 Fax: 202.667.8018
Pentagon Row Plaza
1301 S. Joyce Street, Arlington,VA 22202 Tel: 703.413.8200 Fax: 703.413.8868
Visit us at
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703.243.9811/9812 •
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“Fun For Date or Night Out.”
121 Congressional Lane Rockville, MD 301-770-5999
www.mykonosgrill.com With Love…
From Beatrice’ Kitchen to You.
RISTORANTE ITALIANOCAPRI
6825 Redmond Dr., McLean, VA 22101 703-288-4601 •
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CAFÉ ASSORTIBakery
ENJOY A CUP OF COFFEE WITH CAKES, PIES AND PASTRIES MADE FRESH DAILY
HOMEMADE EASTERN EUROPEAN CUISINE Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Bar
Phone: 703-465-0036 •
www.cafeassorti.com 1800 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA
THAI COUNTRY COMFORT FOOD Try Our Weekend Thai Dim Sum Menu 11am-3:00pm
5892 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041 (703)671-4222
www.duangrats.com
ONLY FRENCH RESTAURANT OPEN SO LATE
’TIL 4 A.M. WEEKENDS All Major Credit Cards Accepted 3124-28 M STREET (202) 338-3830 GEORGETOWN
’TIL 3 A.M. WEEKDAYS
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