THAI CHILI Chinatown
701 7th St, NW
Verizon Center Inside Gallery Place Building
202-393-2905
En route to a table via the open kitchen.
and brash: more than 250 seats spread across eight rooms (plus a patio), and enough paintings to stock a museum. (Some of the art is random. One night, I sat facing framed boats, nudes, bowls of fruit and a German shepherd.) When I asked owner Fireman, who has restaurants near such iconic New York sites as Lincoln Center and Carnegie Hall, why he chose National Harbor for his eighth venture, he responded: “Where was I going to go” in New York? “We’re always going against 40 other guys.” I’m partial to meat on the bone; it
tends to have more flavor. The rewards for ordering bone-in cuts at Bond 45 include the (corn-fed and dry-aged) New York strip steak and a thick and juicy veal chop. Rib-eye comes nicely marbled, but the night I got the meat, the slab appeared to have been flattened by a tank. Other dishes, particularly those
originating from the water, get in way of the fun. A rack of scampi looks impressive, but despite a dusting of chili flakes and far too much butter, the seafood is bland. Lobster (and shrimp and clams) is wasted on a risotto that more closely resembles a rice casserole. There’s also a Jumbo Crab Steak that inspires a question, which is, in fact, posed on the menu: What is it? “Glad you asked,” says a perky server, who details jumbo lump crab enriched with mayonnaise and herbs, pressed into the shape of a steak and poised on a wisp of brioche. The result is … dense. Why not just do a cake? Served whole, branzino tarted up with juicy little tomatoes on the plate leaves a better taste in my mouth. Of the side dishes, the creamed
broccoli rabe is best. A veneer of cheese on top and bits of slightly crunchy vegetable in the puree give the accompaniment an edge. Roast
potatoes, however, are sliced in chunks that are too thick, leaving parts underdone. The chunks also taste warmed-over. Mashed potatoes are wet and flavorless. Polenta is a snooze after a bite or two. Do like Michael Pollan, and “eat your colors,” as the author and activist preaches in his latest book, “Food Rules.” In addition to the broccoli rabe, the grilled asparagus with its web of melted Parmesan is also pleasing. Dessert is introduced on a big tray.
You might beg off, having eaten that fist-size popover or all 20 ounces of the New York strip. If you like tiramisu, however, here’s a place to indulge. The confection has just the right amount of coffee, chocolate and mascarpone. The server’s eyes might widen when she describes the tortoni. It turns out she’s not exaggerating. The cool white ball of ice cream, flavored with candied orange, paved in sliced almonds and lashed with caramel sauce, is irresistible. The “bucket” of chocolate mousse probably would merit a frown from the first lady. One way to sidestep guilt is to share the stuff, which is scooped out of two small pails (there’s whipped cream, too) at the table. But wait! There’s more! Just when
you think dinner is over, along comes a manager with a sheet of warm chocolate chip cookies. The first time it happened, I figured the gesture was a last-minute nicety. By my fourth visit, stuffed as I was, I had become Pavlov’s pooch, smacking my lips in anticipation of one last treat. Even if you’re not a regular here,
you’re made to feel like one. But, like any regular, you learn the kitchen’s strengths after a few meals. Experience has taught me to load up on vegetables, follow with some turf and loosen my belt for a sweet something.
Ask Tom will return.
Yechon Restaurant Fine Korean and Japanese Cuisine
(703)914-4646 • (703)914-0100 OPEN 24 HOURS
4121 Hummer Rd., Annandale, VA 22003 Located Next to
WINNER BEST PAD THAI THROWDOWN WITH BOBBY FLAY ON
FOOD NETWORK Member Les Dames d’Escoffi er
Nongkran Daks Executive Chef
14511-P Lee Jackson Mem. Hwy. Chantilly, VA 703-631-8277
Authentic Thai Cuisine
www.thaibasilchantilly.com FINE LEBANESE CUISINE
FINE LEBA
in Arlington” – Tom Sietsema
“A Welcome Addition
2300 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA 22201 703.465.4440
www.me-jana.com Free Parking
6 King St., Alexandria 703.548.0600
Authentic Thai Cuisine
www.maithai.us
Lunch at 11 • Dinner at 4 Saturday and Sunday Brunch 11-3 Great Happy Hour 4-7 • Late Night Menu
1211 U Street, NW (202) 667-8880
bensnextdoor.com
1200 19th St. NW 202.452.6870
Family owned and operated since 1990.
SILVER SPRING 8701 Ramsey Ave. (301) 588-4872
www.miranchotexmexrestaurant.com
GERMANTOWN 19725-A Germantown Rd. (301) 515-7480
ROCKVILLE 1488 Rockville Pike (240) 221-2636
(202) 466-8811 2020 K ST. NW Zagat Rated #1 Steakhouse in D.C.–2009
1st Place Visitors Choice Award 2009 Live Piano • Free Valet Parking
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