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Tom Sietsema Dining


★ ★ (Good)


Bond 45 149 Waterfront St., Oxon Hill. 301-839-1445. bond45.com.


Open: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday, noon to 11 p.m. Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. Major credit cards. Valet parking at dinner $10. Parking lot nearby.


prices: Lunch appetizers $8-$25, entrees $14-$48; dinner appetizers $6-$25, entrees $28-$85.


sOund check: 73 decibels/Must speak with raised voice.


suiTABLe Part of the Fireman Hospitality Group in New York, Bond 45 gets its name from an old clothing store called Bond on 45th Street in Manhattan. Customers got two pairs of pants with the purchase of every suit.


Tom chats live at 11 a.m. on Wednesdays. Join him and find videos, blog posts and more at washingtonpost. com/


tomsietsema.


antipasti of artichoke couscous, grilled asparagus, eggplant capanota and roasted red peppers.


“Cocktails?” You look up from your perch


to see Ms. or Mr. Congeniality, who explains the Italian menu. The descriptions make everything sound appealing; even when a server up-sells some cheese, you can’t fault the delivery. (And as it happens, the house-made burrata, priced $4 higher than the $8 mozzarella we first considered, is buttery and decadent.) The guide’s departure is followed by the delivery of the first of several treats: freshly baked and slightly cheesy popovers. Cocktails selected from Bond


45’s “Prohibition” list will make you grin. They’re poured from teapots into matching cups, just the way New York owner Shelly Fireman says his grandmother served the strong stuff back when it was illegal. The glass I keep returning to mixes gin, elderflower liqueur, and grapefruit and lemon juices. It’s called Illegally Blonde and goes down easily. The classics are just as intoxicating. To maintain a good mood,


A warm harbor T


in Prince George’s Bond 45 offers abundant Italian fare


here’s no red carpet at Bond 45 in National Harbor. It just feels that way. The sense that you’re in the home of an especially exuberant host sometimes begins at the long, stained-oak bar, where mixologists


give arrivals a verbal salute. Other times, the professional embrace commences with a dapper greeter who ushers diners through the middle of an open kitchen to their table in one of several handsome rooms graced with antique tiles, art-deco-style light fixtures and wine-colored leather banquettes. Smart start: To the right of the path, patrons catch steaks and


fish coming off the heat. To the left, a rainbow of vegetable salads and charcuterie is on display behind glass. Even before you see a menu, you’re hankering for something grilled and something green.


30 The WashingTon PosT Magazine | JUNE 13, 2010


graze among the vegetable antipasti. For $21, the table gets a choice of four items. Roasted red and yellow peppers brighten up a plate, as do earthy beets paired with juicy orange. Sweet and sour eggplant is both, thanks to capers and raisins in the mix, and broccoli rabe is better for its tan slivers of garlic. There are artichokes, too, in a fluffy couscous speckled with tomatoes and peppers. Like your prelude heartier? Meatballs draped in tomato sauce are big, soft and satisfying; eggplant Parmesan is home-style comfort. Steamed clams swim in a tomato-y and slightly spicy broth that puts those popovers to more use. As with the original Bond 45,


in New York’s theater district, this waterfront retreat is big


PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN


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