I use scrap paper to hide the rest while using standard masking tape to protect form overspray. The scrap paper also acts as testing paper for my airbrush before I spray. I could have used the Press and Seal from Glad but I found that it sometimes leaves a tacky residue, which can easily be removed but that I find to be a nuisance. For the red I used the Scarlet from Dr Martin. I found that this red straight out of the bottle was close enough to match the basic red and that by fogging over with a darker red and some other paint mixtures in some areas, that I would be just right. This was done on a test surface before. Don’t use your main painting to experiment unless you are 100% sure of the results. Keep your samples for future references. Other colours that where used to fog over are Ruby Red from Dr Martin mixed with some Fluorescent Red from Createx. In areas


where the highlights will be I sprayed over with Hot Pink Fluorescent from Createx. The last colour that I used on the red was some Indian Yellow from FW Artists on the left edge of the pants and on the lower right side, where the shadows are and slightly above it. Always step back from your work to get an overall view. If you don’t you will find yourself putting down more paint than what you really want. Some of the fogging that I have done is very light. Like the old saying goes, measure twice and cut once!! Same thing applies here.


Using my Iwata HP-SB Plus, I started working the shadows on the right hand side with some Sepia co- lour from FW Artists re- duced with water by about 50%.I do this because I want to lay down as little paint as I can to get the shapes right. I want to locate the curves and the creases. I have one shot at this. Don’t try to apply shadows like this in one or two strokes. I work from about 8’’ from the paint- ed surface. By now, the shadows are too light but that’s OK, I’ll come back later with some sepia with just a bit of black mixed in. Now I want to work on the creases on the left hand side.


Because I want to get the creases just right, I used my computer to enlarge and print the crease area to the exact size. Then I placed an acetate sheet on top and traced over the crisp lines of the creases. Using my acetate hot iron cutter over my light table I then proceed to cut following the marked lines. Makes sure to use non water-soluble marker when tracing or else when paint- ing, the left over marks will dissolve in the paint altering you colours and you most certainly don’t want that.


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