TESTING PACKAGING VS FORMULA
requirements of major markets, and this is the key factor to ensure the export and marketing of products in the future.”
INTERACTION BETWEEN CONTAINER & CONTENT
When bringing a cosmetic product to market, you need to complete a Product Information File (PIF) with particular attention to the cosmetic product safety report. Annex I of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 specifies what a cosmetic product safety report should contain. Any information required by the cosmetic safety assessor for the cosmetic product safety report should be included in the PIF.
The product safety report must contain extensive information on the packaging material in contact with the cosmetic product. It requires a better understanding of raw materials used in packaging manufacturing. This is especially pertinent considering advances that are currently being made in materials technology, especially in relation to recycled materials, such as the Advanced Circular Recycling technologies from CosmetoPack member Eastman.
“In line with the new plastic regulations that involve recycling, the key point will be to understand the different recycling technologies, their characteristics and impacts,” notes Cedric Perben, Eastman’s Global Technical Platform Lead, Cosmetics Packaging.
“On the one hand, packaging must meet the standards of sustainability and the circular economy. On the other hand, cosmetics packaging must be safe to use by consumers. Key topics include purity, traceability and costs.” Perben adds that, “historically, ‘made with recycled content’ refers to materials and products made from mechanical recycling, also known as traditional recycling”.
Limitations to mechanical recycling include
that: • It requires clean sources of materials; • Materials can only be mechanically recycled a finite number of times due to degradation;
• There are seven different types of plastics produced and mechanical recycling can only process two; and
• Many products made with recycled content eventually end up in landfill.
“Mechanical recycling is designed to delay plastic from going to the landfill, but alone it is not enough,” Perben adds. “We need a solution to create products that improve our quality of life and keep them in use longer. Through Eastman’s Advanced Circular Recycling technologies, also known as molecular recycling, we are creating value from waste. These technologies break down waste into its molecular building blocks so it can be reused over and over again, creating an infinite life span for materials that were previously destined to be discarded.’’
56 December 2020
EDUCATION & INFORMATION To provide further information, CosmetoPack partner Itech has developed two training sessions on the interactions between plastic packaging (including PCR) and cosmetic formulas. The training programmes are available on request in English, and/or as a virtual classroom. For more details, contact
formation.continue@
itech.fr. The first two-day training session (2-3 February or 22-23 June 2021) aims to identify the container/content interaction and integrate this into product design, while analysing container/content interactions to assess toxicological risks related to human safety. The second one-day session (4 February or 24 June 2021) will analyse and apply the Cosmetic Regulation and identify hazards to consumer health through the safety assessment
Author Gilles Gauthier, CosmetoPack
cosmeticsbusiness.com
HOW TO TEST FOR TOXICOLOGICAL ISSUES The protocols for testing for toxicological issues involve: • Controversial ingredients; • Additives: substances such as dyes, functional, antibacterial and anti-UV ingredients;
• Plastic packaging materials from fossil fuels, or those which are from bio-based, renewable and recycled resources; and
• The interactions between them. And the CosmetoPack project is organised into three steps: • Step A: Establish exposure data for cosmetics and packaging materials (this has been completed);
• Step B: Analyse the contamination of cosmetics by packaging;
• Step C: Model the contamination of cosmetics by packaging.
The protocol for the cosmetics industry has been inspired by what has been done for the food industry and is based on the combination of an analytical method and bioassays. To date, CosmetoPack has completed phase A of exposure data for cosmetics and packaging materials. The next step will establish simulating formulas – simple cosmetic formulas made of characteristic ingredients, which can simulate usual cosmetic formulas – and then simulate the exposure data and work on representative plastics/formulas. “We can move forward quickly and well only as a group,” say Anne-Lise Durier and Julien Lostetter from additives and masterbatches provider Groupe Treffert. “The goal is to gather strengths and to rely on cohesion. Any new partner is welcome. Sharing the points of view of material suppliers, formulators, packaging manufacturers, toxicologists and brands definitely brings value.”
Advances in sustainable packaging materials technology and regular new ingredient launches mean greater focus must be placed on the interaction between the pack and cosmetic formulation
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