PACKAGING BIODEGRADABLE
algae or wood. But it’s worth noting that not all bioplastics are biodegradable and not all biodegradable plastics are bio-based, and it would be greenwashing to market the product as such.
A new UK standard published by the British Standards Institution (BSI) specified that plastic packaging that claims to be biodegradable must break down into a harmless substance, without microplastics or nanoplastics, within two years and in real-world soil conditions. The EU standard for compostable-labelled packaging EN 13432 requires that the product breaks down under industrial conditions within 12 weeks, leaving no more than 10% of the original material in pieces bigger than 2mm and does no harm to the soil.
LABEL ISSUES Unsurprisingly, as consumers increasingly shift towards an eco-conscious beauty routine, brands will want to find ways to help their product stand out and labelling their packaging as ‘biodegradable’ or ‘compostable’ will ultimately help boost sales.
“Consumers want companies to reflect their values,” explains Maurizio Ficcadenti, Global R&D Manager of Baralan, whose portfolio includes biodegradable plastics.
“Buyers are far more likely to purchase from brands with an identity that practices eco-friendly values. As a larger number of people show interest in green living,
biodegradable packaging presents an opportunity for growth for brands.”
But for consumers, deciphering the perplexing labels to these packaging alternatives is no easy feat. A new study by University College London’s Big Compost Experiment found that 84% of people surveyed liked
biodegradable plastics and would be more likely to buy them, but
were confused about where to compost them. The majority of products labelled as ‘compostable’ are not suitable for home composting and they actually only break down in industrial composters that maintain high temperatures for weeks at a time. Similarly, local councils in the UK ask consumers to not place ‘biodegradable’ or ‘compostable’ plastic in their recycling bin or food waste caddy, resulting in the only current option being general waste and forcing the ‘eco-friendly’ option to be sent to landfill or incineration. “It’s almost like we’ve come up with this idea
that’s ahead of its time,” says Jo Ruxton, founder of charity Ocean Plastics UK. “We have no
32 December 2020
infrastructure to recognise them, to separate them and then to deal with them. You can’t just compost them in your garden waste and you can’t put it in the recycling either, or that biodegradable bioplastic would contaminate the entire batch of recyclable plastic.” Instead, Constance Ißbrücker, Head of Environmental Affairs for industry association European Bioplastics, advises brands to be specific on their packaging labels to help consumers be more sustainable: “This is very important to us, because if you send the message that it is ‘biodegradable’, then you unfortunately have to assume that people will think it will biodegrade anywhere and that is not the case for all materials. “You should never say something is ‘biodegradable’, you should always mention in which environment it biodegrades, whether that’s in the home compost, soil or industrial.”
LESS WASTE, MORE STRUCTURE While biodegradable plastics can be made of fossil fuels, the focus is typically on plant-based materials that, according to Ficcadenti, require fewer resources.
“[They] have the potential to reduce water usage, solid waste, electricity and consequently, there is a reduction of the ecological impact and a contribution to a less polluted ecosystem,” says Ficcadenti. “These environmental benefits are also related to energy savings – in the long run, it requires a lesser amount of energy.”
Bioplastics can also help to reduce waste from other industries. For example, start-up MarinaTex has developed plastic from byproducts of the fishing industry (scales and skin) that is designed to breakdown in home composts or food waste bins within six weeks. Meanwhile, students from Mexican university National Polytechnic Institute
have developed a biodegradable plastic from mango peel.
These plant-based plastics, once incinerated, are also said to be a better alternative to their traditional counterparts, as they will not release pollutants and gases into the atmosphere once burnt: a growing concern raised by environmentalists.
A 2018 investigation by Zero Waste Europe found that the Netherlands’ newest incinerator released emissions of carcinogens dioxin and furan far above the EU limits. Meanwhile, as the UK is expected to open 50 new incinerators, Greenpeace raised concerns about the impact on air quality and the health of vulnerable people in local areas.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
The production of plant-based biodegradable plastics, as used in Baralan’s product offer (left), requires less water and electricity than conventional plastic
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