INGREDIENTS GOURMAND
touch, smell, sight and, in an indirect way, taste since the texture reminds the consumer of a particular taste.”
Aleksandra Zmiric, Technical Application and Marketing Development Manager Personal Care EMEA at Clariant, adds that the lines between food and personal care are “blurred”. “They share a degree of familiarity, a reminder of the past, that is easy for the consumer to relate to on an emotional level, whether that’s a colour, a crunchy or squeaky sound, smooth silky texture, or a specific scent,” she says. “So there’s a lot of potential appeal in ‘borrowing’ or transitioning the textures, fragrances and benefits of food to personal care products.” Lou Graydon, Technical Development Chemist at Aston Chemicals, further notes: “Most consumers will know what to expect when they see a honey or yoghurt textured product, and for a lot of foods they may also associate the food with skin care benefits, as fruits, honey and dairy products have been used throughout history to enhance beauty and treat skin problems. “Consumers are also influenced by the trend towards more natural, simpler beauty products, which is easily communicated using food textures and ingredients.”
SOMETHING STICKY
A familiar texture which has fun playtime and positive gastronomic connotations when applied to cosmetics is runny honey.
One formulation concept from Aston Chemicals is Radiance Honey Mask, which contains a natural source of alpha hydroxy acids (from tamarind), to gently remove dull skin and reveal a smooth, glowing complexion. Physically, Radiance Honey Mask has the appearance and spreadability of honey squeezed straight from the bottle. It can be spread smoothly onto the skin in a thin layer, where – unlike its (somewhat dribbly) edible counterpart – it stays put.
“The texture is completely due to Dermothix-100, and we played with the levels quite a lot when developing this formula,” says Graydon.
“At 6% in this formulation it can be runny when picked up or poured slowly, but also allows for mess-free application as it acts as a solid when it’s picked up fast.
“It then encourages the user to slowly massage it into skin, and in a thin layer it stays in place until it’s rinsed off, although it will be gloopy if you apply too much!
“Dermothix-100 is also self-levelling, so it creates a smooth layer over the skin – this is also excellent for sun care formulations to give an even coverage.”
A manuka honey and leather fragrance adds to the foodie experience, while providing a
16 December 2020
“My fellow inventors are having a fair bit of fun with sherbet powder at the moment
Lush’s I Want a Hippopotamus for Christmas bath bomb brings a splash of festive fun to consumers’ baths with popping candy and a raspberry fragrance
modern twist.
A face mask boasting a fun texture payoff is Caramask, which demonstrates the ingredients portfolio and expertise of Gattefossé. Here, the golden brown emulsion and gourmand caramel scent result in the face mask evoking the sweet, buttery sauce.
The product is formulated with a high amount of cetyl alcohol and glycerin, which give it an intentional soaping effect, while hydroxypropyl guar brings a stringy caramel texture. Meanwhile, Gattefossé’s Emulium Dolcea MB both creates the emulsion and also helps to rinse the product off the skin.
And Lush is looking to incorporate some sweetness into its upcoming products, with Commisso revealing: “My fellow inventors are having a fair bit of fun with sherbet powder at the moment and I’m working with a lot of different vegan syrups, such as blue agave nectar – they are really amazing humectants and help create skin care formulas that don’t require synthetic preservatives.”
ALL SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM When combined with cooling ingredients or a scent associated with sweetness, such as vanilla, the sensation provided by ice cream or sorbet-textured products as they ‘break’ on your skin provides a pleasurable cognitive link with many people’s favourite childhood dessert. Skin care cream Double Melt Gelato from Aston Chemicals has an ice cream texture that instantly breaks as it is gently rubbed into the skin, providing a refreshing ‘water-drop effect’ to relieve and cool skin. Perhaps unsurprisingly, this cream is envisaged to soothe skin following sun exposure.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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