GOURMAND INGREDIENTS
It is made “using a combination of
WaterDropSil emulsifier, which stabilises emulsions with large droplet sizes to give a water-drop effect, and high melting point waxes Dermowax BB and Performalene M70, to give a more solid texture with the water-drop effect, which helps it to ‘melt’ twice”, says Graydon. Also deployed for its soothing effect is Aston Chemicals’ Aftershave Soothing Sorbet. Here water-based acrylates thickener Aqua Keep 10SH-NFC is used to give the appearance of a sorbet with a light feel on the skin. “For me, a sorbet is all about the melt on skin and the cooling sensation,” Graydon notes. “Sorbet formulations tend to contain high levels of water and can have a slightly grainy appearance but a smooth texture and melt instantly on the skin to give a refreshing feel. “After shaving, skin can be inflamed and irritated, and the Aftershave Soothing Sorbet provides an instant cooling effect, which helps to reduce inflammation, and melts easily onto skin leaving a refreshed feel. “It’s perfect for men’s skin care, as men tend to prefer lighter, more watery textures. “It also contains Teflose, which forms a
‘teflon-like’ coating over the skin, helping to reduce itching and sensitivity, in particular after irritation from shaving.”
FEELING FRUITY
From smoothies to jams, what we find in our fridges, cupboards and fruit bowls can be a fertile source of inspiration with Gattefossé’s Banana Peel massage cream being one example.
“This formulation was created for our Inspiration 2020 edition,” Bollon tells Cosmetics Business. “It is part of the topic ‘Into the Fun’, in which we propose three funny textures, related to childhood.
“For this one, we were inspired by the slippery banana peel. The texture is yellow and bright, and it has a long playtime.”
According to Gattefossé’s Bollon, this slippery effect “is obtained thanks to Lipocire A SG at 8.5%, a vegetable butter that brings a melting sensation and increases the playtime of the formula”.
Clariant is taking inspiration from drinks with ingredients offering a warm, smooth and silky texture said to impart a sensation of safety and relaxation
cosmeticsbusiness.com
“It is very simple to use,” she adds. “You just need to put it in the oil phase and heat. Its melting point is 35-36.5°C.”
Because Lipocire A SG has a melting point very close to the skin’s temperature, the texture melts slowly on the skin and releases its oil phase – principally made of Cetiol Ultimate, a dry emollient – for a long, but not greasy massage, says Bollon.
ENJOY YOUR TIPPLE
Beverages offer similar scope for innovation. To promote its Aristoflex Range of ingredients, Clariant recently created a range of drink textured cosmetics, including milk, champagne and ice tea-inspired formulations. “Cosmetic drink textures contribute to recreating a carefree moment,” says Zmiric. “They are also very indulgent, liquid and easy to apply.”
Chantilly Brightening Cream helps make the skin more uniform and improves its radiance. The texture, meanwhile, “is linked to consuming a warm, white beverage that calms, and provides the sensation of safety, home and relaxation”, says Zmiric.
“Mirroring the rich, smooth and satiny nature of a traditional sweetened Chantilly cream, we chose a warm, smooth and silky texture that would encourage the consumer to apply the cream in every single spot of the treated surface in order to get the best results.
“At the same time, the fragrance is culinary, cozy and relaxing, helping the consumer to stay immersed in the experience for a while, as the length of application time is fundamental for achieving the desired action of bringing uniformity to the skin.” Zmiric tells Cosmetics Business that the whipped cream feel was achieved using the rheology modifier Aristoflex AVS, which provides a high viscosity gel that breaks quickly on the skin with a fresh and airy afterfeel. Clariant’s Aftersun Ice Tea Gel, meanwhile, was developed to provide an instant soothing effect for skin following exposure to heat and sun. With this composition, “the crystal refreshing gel breaks quickly on the skin and becomes fresh water thanks to Aristoflex AVC providing instant relief and relaxation”, says Zmiric. The product’s lemon scent and transparent visual appearance emphasise the ‘ice tea’ element. “The fragrance and having aspects similar to real drinks can recall the sensation of feeling better as we drink juices, coffee or warm milk,” Zmiric says of the collection.
In 2020, self-care and at-home pampering dominated the beauty space as consumers sought to ‘feel better’ amid Covid-19 lockdown restrictions and an uncertain, unpredictable future.
And, with no end to the pandemic in sight, it seems likely that demand for the nostalgic, comforting and indulgent cosmetic products inspired by food and drink will remain on the menu not only over the holiday period, but for months to come
December 2020 17
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