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PACKAGING VS FORMULA TESTING


Assessing interaction between packaging & formula


The plastics and cosmetics industries are pooling their efforts under non-profit project CosmetoPack, which is setting up a toxicological hazards management protocol for formula and packaging interaction. CosmetoPack’s Gilles Gauthier explains more


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hallenges for the cosmetics industry include meeting regulatory requirements for both cosmetics and plastics, and also meeting consumer expectations.


In the face of inaccurate mass media coverage, which can be subject to false interpretation, our industries need to set their intention, explain transparently and act with common sense. In the European Union, a list of authorised ingredients for the composition of cosmetic formulas, the risks of which have been individually assessed, already exists. But these lists are enriched with innovations (new ingredients), thereby increasing the potential for interactions and associated migratory hazards. Another factor is the need for greater transparency regarding the composition of plastic packaging, especially when it comes to new plastic solutions, such as post-consumer recycled (PCR) and biosourced materials, and their associated migratory hazards. The impact of PCR plastic is unknown, as there is less information on purity, traceability, etc.


Environmental challenges must also be respected; the EU’s European Strategy for Plastics in a Circular Economy and the New Plastics Economy Global Commitment both set out the ‘5Rs’ for plastic, namely reduce, reuse, recycle, recover and residual management. In addition, there are industrial challenges, such as production tools’ adaptation, quality standards and costs/ROI, which must be likewise taken into account. Finally, the existence of a packaging-plus-food standard (1935/2004/CE and 10/2011/CE) can provide the cosmetics industry with a basis for the implementation of its own protocol. But it cannot be a direct copy, as food ingredients, food expiration times and materials are different to those of cosmetic formulations.


HOW COSMETOPACK CAME TOGETHER The working group CosmetoPack was the idea of French dermo-cosmetology organisation


cosmeticsbusiness.com


December 2020 53


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