The Embroidery Column
Let’s talk threads – rayon vs polyester
Frost vs Nixon, Ali vs Frazier, and now rayon vs polyester. Both have significant advantages but which is best? Marketing manager for Madeira UK, Natalie Greetham gives her verdict.
T
wo fibres, two personalities, both brilliant; but for very different reasons. The most important one is bleach, the major functional divider between them. Let’s get into it.
Whether you’re threading your first needle or managing production on a commercial machine, the question of rayon (often labelled viscose) versus polyester thread comes up constantly. Both ranges produce beautiful results and are widely used in the industry. But they are not interchangeable. Understanding the strengths and limitations of each can help to improve stitch quality, avoid costly production challenges, and ultimately ensure you choose the right thread for your project.
What makes rayon (viscose) thread unique?
Rayon thread is made from regenerated cellulose, typically wood pulp, which gives it a silky, natural-looking sheen. It’s soft, flexible, and smooth-running, and its filaments spread during stitching to provide better coverage than polyester. Because of its elegant appearance, rayon thread promotes a high-end, luxurious finish.
Its softness, compared to polyester, allows for smooth, clean registration on intricate designs, making it especially suitable for fashion applications and delicate fabrics. Rayon is also naturally anti-static, an important requirement in certain industries.
However, rayon does have limitations. It is not bleach-resistant; prolonged exposure to bleach, chlorine, or UV light can cause fading. For these reasons, rayon performs best where durability is not the top priority.
What makes polyester thread stand out?
Polyester thread is made from synthetic polymers and engineered
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Picking the right thread for the job
for resilience, making it the workhorse of commercial embroidery. It’s ideal for products that must endure frequent wear, repeated washing, and prolonged exposure to sunlight. Manufacturers, such as Madeira UK, now offer polyester threads made from recycled raw materials, providing a more sustainable option without compromising performance. Choose polyester when durability, washability, and strength are essential. If a garment will be worn often, stretched, washed regularly, or exposed to the elements, polyester is the most reliable choice. It’s perfect for uniforms, workwear, sportswear, children’s clothing, and outdoor gear and accessories. Polyester also retains its colour when exposed to UV rays, chlorine, or harsh detergents, and its heat and chemical resistance ensure it performs well under frequent or industrial laundering.
Because polyester is engineered for strength, it is often the first choice when longevity or performance is the priority. It is also more cost-effective as it tends to be slightly cheaper than rayon, especially in large-volume production.
However, cheaper isn’t always better, especially when you consider your overall business costs. In embroidery, machines and labour are your biggest
overheads, and your thread choice can directly affect the lifespan of your equipment. Polyester, for example, is generally harder on a machine than rayon. Parts that are already prone to wear and tear, such as needles, cutting knives, and any metal component that comes in contact with the thread, can deteriorate more quickly. Understanding why polyester thread should break, but often doesn’t, can help you avoid expensive downtime. Because polyester stretches and keeps stitching even under stress, it can be difficult to spot the area of a design that needs adjustment. This stretch can also lead to puckering in the finished embroidery. The most successful embroiderers understand that thread selection must be driven by the specific requirements of each job. By aligning the thread type with the garment’s intended use, expected wear and care conditions, and the desired aesthetic outcome, you can significantly enhance both the quality and longevity of the finished embroidery.
Whenever possible, choose threads that carry Oeko-Tex Class I, Annex 6 certification to ensure compliance with the highest safety and environmental standards. Ultimately, using high-quality thread is one of the most reliable ways to achieve consistently excellent results.
January 2026 | 29 |
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