Sustainability Technologies and innovations for sustainable leather production
The leather tanning sector is experiencing a technological revival. Advanced techniques such as ultrasound tanning, using sound waves to improve the absorption of tanning agents, are diminishing reliance on chemical usage. Concurrently, the adoption of biopolymers and enzymes is enhancing the eco-friendliness of the process. Ongoing research is delving into microbial tanning, a potential game-changer that may revolutionise the industry through a sustainable and efficient approach, with Is It Leather raising the below points: ■ Advanced wastewater treatment systems: Implement processes that use advanced technologies to treat wastewater to a higher level than conventional systems.
■ Digital tools for traceability and transparency: Use software systems like ERP (enterprise resource planning), CRM (customer relationship management) and SCM (supply chain management) to track and manage the supply chain, ensuring transparency and accountability.
■ Sustainable alternatives: Develop and use materials that mimic leather but are environmentally sustainable and cruelty-free, such as plant-based leather made from coconut, cork, pineapple leaves or mushroom mycelium.
The LWG, in collaboration with the Sustainable Leather Foundation, leads the initiative for a more sustainable leather industry. Brands like Mulberry, Pittards, Davy’s of London, ECCO Leather, PrimeAsia Leather Company and JBS Couros, who are licenced partners, maintain a direct connection with consumers. Opting to support these brands enables consumers to actively contribute to a more
sustainable and ethical leather industry. Source:
isitleather.com
tanning, labelling, recycling and more for curious consumers to engage with.
The social media side of the campaign has had some very significant results as well, shifting the commentary from negative to positive. “Pre-2020, less than 10% of the comments on social media were pro-leather. Once we started correcting the misconceptions, within a year, 50% of the comments went positive,” says Tonti. “The radical few are being challenged by the silent majority... It’s working but it’s evolutionary, not revolutionary,” he adds.
“The campaigns have to be consumer- driven. Without change from an educational standpoint, retailers will continue to profit from slick names for plastic products.”
Brad Jackson, Point Blank Communication
“This is a perfect example of a grassroots campaign,” explains Jackson, who adds that it’s an ideal way to counter the well-financed anti- leather movement.
“This gives people a voice when they didn’t think that they could have one,” he says, noting that change will take time and persistence.
Where to begin?
The Is It Leather website and campaign grew out of concerns that developed while Tonti was consulting in the leather industry. The automotive leather market was falling fast even though car buyers want leather in their cars and it is profitable
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for dealers, Tonti explains. In fact, data shows that in the past decade, the number of consumers who purchased leather in their new cars increased by 9% and that 52% of consumers want real leather. Still, only 15% of vehicles have it. That’s leaving a lot of money on the table and a good deal of consumer desire unfulfilled. “It’s a money-maker for brands but they are only satisfying a small proportion of the consumer desire for leather,” Tonti says. Much of this is because the politics of leather have become so strong. Rather than get involved in potential controversy, some automakers have cut back on using leather or moved away from it entirely. Now, as the tide turns and more information emerges about the composition of alternative materials, automotive CEOs are starting to ask why their companies are not offering leather in their cars, Tonti says.
The footwear sector has also moved away from leather over the years; however, the reasons are a little more complex. Leather initially lost a lot of footwear market share to plastics when hide prices skyrocketed to record highs in the period of 2010–14.
Manufacturers switched to cheaper alternatives, mainly PU. These days, even with record-low hide prices, plastics and textiles are still dominating footwear. It’s not just the politics of leather that are to blame, but also the rise of athleisure styles and the decline of formal footwear, which uses a lot more leather.
In the automotive sector, the industry has seen the decline in leather use level off. “I think we’ve stopped the bleeding for automotive,” Tonti says. Naturally, the team believes that the same type of messaging can help other sectors like shoes, accessories and furniture. So, they are expanding their messaging campaign.
“The campaigns have to be consumer-driven.
Without change from an educational standpoint, retailers will continue to profit from slick names for plastic products,” Jackson says. Indeed, the growth of terms like ‘vegan leather’, ‘PU leather’, ‘eco- leather’ and a host of ‘plant leathers’ have made it far more difficult for consumers to know exactly what they are buying.
Often, products made from those alternative materials are simply labelled as ‘leather’, making it impossible for shoppers to know what they are getting.
While a cheaper price tag used to be the tell-tale sign of fake leather, that is no longer the case. High-end shoes, handbags and accessories made from vegan materials are often expensive.
Going viral
Social media is now the go-to method for initiating change because of its great capacity and reach. It’s also key because using social media costs just a
Leather International /
www.leathermag.com
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