T RIED AND TE ST E D LONDON RES T A UR A NT S
Hide
BREAKFAST MEANS
BUSINESS
◆THE WOLS EL E Y
Until Hide opened five minutes’ walk away, this Continental-style grand
café in St James’ was the king of breakfast venues. It still attracts A-list celebs and has a great buzz. Book ahead.
rooms hidden in alcoves around it. “Ground” brasserie – on the ground floor – is the main dining area, open from breakfast until late. “Above” is the top-flight private dining rooms, serving multi-course tasting menus. Above is also serviced by a private (car) lift, just in case the beautiful spiral staircase linking the floors isn’t discreet enough for you. Ollie Dabbous held a Michelin star at his
Hide is already London’s most important restaurant opening of 2018. It could hardly fail to be with a reputed £20 million spent and one of the country’s most talented chefs, Ollie Dabbous, leading the kitchen. Award-winning sommeliers were headhunted to showcase the UK’s most impressive wine list. There are 450 bottles listed in a leather-bound tome, plus the option of delving, by Ipad, into the 6,500 options from the cellars of the Russian owners’ other enterprise, Hedonism Wines (Mayfair’s premiere wine shop). All this opulence impresses, but not in a vulgar way. The clue is in the name – Hide is about stealth wealth, and the discreet appreciation of luxury. The venue occupies three floors of a corner
site in Mayfair, three years in the making. The basement is a cosy bar, with a few private dining
first restaurant, and is certain to attain at least one at Hide. Highlights of our meal included a plump tentacle of barbecued octopus that was pleasingly charred and served with the sour-sweet flavours of lovage and raw grapes; a dessert of warm acorn cake drenched in rum and served with clotted cream; and, on an early morning breakfast revisit, what might be the best porridge in London.
VERDICT A chef at the height of his powers has teamed up with wine connoisseurs who have very deep pockets and impeccable taste. The result is brilliant food, a fantastic wine list curated by expert staff, and a low-key and relaxing ambience. Hide is excellent, and that rare thing: a destination for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Guy Dimond
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om HOUR S
7.30am-11.30pm daily. P R ICE
“Above” tasting menu: £95.
“Ground” à la carte meal for two with wine and service: around £160.
Breakfast: around £20 per head.
C ONT A C T
85 Piccadilly, W1J 7NB; +44 020 3146 8666;
hide.co.uk
◆DE AN STREE T TOWNHOUSE
This Soho dining room, popular with media
movers and shakers, is charmingly old school
with retro dishes such as grilled Manx kippers. deanstreettownhouse. com
JUNE 2 0 18
thewolseley.com
87
◆CHILTERN FIR EHOUS E This fashionable
Marylebone restaurant is notoriously difficult to get into, but there’s no such problem for breakfast
from 7-11.30am weekdays. The alfresco courtyard is a delightful spot.
chilternfirehouse.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
