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WAT C H E S


Te GMT-Master II has returned 76


to its original colours of red and blue (aka the “Pepsi” bezel)


adjustment to a classic, when finely judged, can have a greater impact than an entire new range of underwhelming watches. And – as the cynics will say – by avoiding such moves, Rolex reduces the risk of diluting the strength of its brand. Tis year, for example, it


released a new version of the GMT-Master II. Te key point here concerns the colours of the bezel; for a long while available only in steel with a black and red bezel, it now returns to its original 1955 colours of red and blue (aka a “Pepsi” bezel). Such a visibly simple change is rendered more complex by the manufacturing process required to make the two-tone bezel in ceramic without one colour bleeding into the other, as it is fired


JUNE 2 0 18


at 800 degrees. But nevertheless, as headline news, outside of Planet Rolex, it’s not earth- shattering stuff. Elsewhere, the watch receives


an upgraded movement, which will make barely perceptible differences to the life of the owner: it will run for 70 hours as opposed to the previous 50, and boast improved resistance to fluctuations in temperature and to shock. Last but not least, the


Rolex GMT-Master II in stainless steel will be available on a new bracelet. I say new – the Jubilee bracelet dates back as far as 1945 – but its appearance on this year’s watch is nevertheless big news. Hopefully, by now you are starting to see what I mean about incremental changes.


All this might give the


impression I’m unimpressed by Rolex. Perish the thought. Tis is the magic of the brand – to get it right the first time is an achievement; to have the confidence and maturity to resist the pressure to reinvent the wheel every five years is, in the watch world, incredible. Do I wish Rolex would do


something crazy every now and then? Such as bring out an entirely new watch; reinvent the Submariner; produce watches in materials other than steel or gold? Of course I do. But I understand why it can’t – to do so would be to shatter the illusion (and besides, that’s what Tudor is for). Te 2018 GMT- Master is a classy, future-proof iteration of a classic formula. Te king is dead; long live the king.


BT


Rolex GMT- Master II in 18-carat Everose gold with a two- colour bezel


bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om


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