F OOD AND DRINK


guard in Prague is on the way out. Tese young guys are opening new bistros and bringing a breath of fresh air to the scene.” Chefs are also promoting


46


appreciation of produce quality, another factor changing Prague’s food scene. Kašpárek notes the trend towards “seasonal, regional and fresh ingredients”. Meanwhile, Paul Day uses meat from his butcher business, Te Real Meat Society. In turn, Czech organic farmers supply him. Tey are enjoying a surge in popularity partly thanks to greater consumer awareness of flavours. “Seven years ago, when I met the first farmer suppliers, we didn’t have enough. Now, many rear their animals outside and have much more meat to sell.” Martin Štangl concurs: “Credit to the farmers, who are interested in doing good business by providing restaurants with the highest-quality produce.” Besides produce quality, sourcing,


on which Paul Day refuses to compromise, is contributing to the revolution. “Several years ago,


LISTINGS ■ Coffee Room


Korunní 74, Praha 10 +420 736 171 990 coffeeroom.cz Cosy contemporary café ■ Divinis Týnská 21, Praha 1 +420 222 325 440 divinis.cz Italian cooking in a relaxed environment; Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018 ■ EMA Espresso Bar Na Florenci 3, Praha 1 +420 730 156 933 emaespressobar.cz Minimalist, popular café ■ Eska Pernerova 49, Praha 8 +420 731 140 884 eska.ambi.cz/en Restaurant, café and bakery, contemporary style. Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018


JUNE 2 0 18


■ Field U Milosrdných 12, Praha 1 +420 222 316 999 fieldrestaurant.cz One Michelin Star 2018 ■ V Kolkovně V Kolkovně 8, Praha 1 +420 224 819 701 vkolkovne.cz Traditional Czech beer hall ■ La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise Haštalská 18, Praha 1 +420 222 311 234 ladegustation.cz/en Degustation menu, contemporary Czech. One Michelin Star 2018 ■ Lidová jídelna Těšnov Těšnov 1163/5, Praha +420 224 225 421 lidovajidelna.cz Traditional Czech food in busy canteen ■ Lokál Hamburk Sokolovská 55, Praha 8


outside all year and lead happy lives. You can taste that,” he adds, grinning. Prague food lovers are positive


about the future, including the continued improvement of customer service. “Tere are still waiters who aren’t service-oriented,” points out Isabelle du Plessix, although she is confident that this will change. And food commentators view the


RIGHT: Chef Radek Kašpárek of Field restaurant BELOW: Přeštice Black-Pied pig


everyone in Prague was advertising meat from the US and South America. I was determined to have only Czech protein on the menu.” Te enthusiastic Englishman’s commitment also motivated him to popularise a local breed, the Přeštice Black-Pied pig, which he regards as one of the best around. “Tey are


+420 222 310 361 lokal-hamburk.ambi.cz/en Modern take on a traditional Czech pub ■ Maso a kobliha Petrská 23, Praha 1 +420 224 815 056 masoakobliha.cz Informal nose-to-tail cooking. Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018 ■ Mezi srnky Sázavská 19, Praha 2 +420 732 238 833 cafemezisrnky.cz Friendly, homely, popular for brunch ■ Můj šálek kávy Křižíkova 105, Praha 8 +420 725 556 944 mujsalekkavy.cz/en Popular neighbourhood café noted for excellent coffee ■ Na Kopci K Zavěrce 2774/20, Praha 5 +420 251 553 102 nakopci.com


emphasis on produce and localism as an opportunity for traditional approaches to Czech cuisine. Oldřich Sahajdák, executive chef at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, is regarded as a champion of such cooking, which he promotes at his Bistro Milada restaurant. By contrast, the chefs also predict the growth of Asian cooking, partly thanks to the city’s large Vietnamese community, which settled here during communism. In addition, high-quality ingredients are available from the SAPA Asian market. “I think there will be many more Asian restaurants in the future,” says Sahajdák. BT


Neighbourhood Czech/French cuisine; Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018 ■ Nejen Bistro Křižíkova 24, Praha 8 +420 271 249 494 nejenbistro.cz/en Contemporary bistro and grill with industrial feel ■ Podolka Karlín Šaldova 34, Praha 8 +420 222 325 307 karlin.restaurace podolka.cz Extensive vegetarian menu ■ Sansho Petrská 25, Praha 1 +420 222 317 425 sansho.cz Informal Asian fusion. Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018 ■ U Bulínů Budečská 2, Praha 2 +420 224 254 676 restaurace ubulinu.cz Neighbourhood Czech restaurant


busin e s s t r a ve lle r . c o m


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