FR AGR A NC E S
intriguing contrast with amber and skin- hugging musks. £59 for 100ml eau de toilette.
feelunique.com
70
Pepper, sweet almonds and a dusky rose add a more nocturnal tinge to the original L’Homme Idéal. £78 for 100ml eau de parfum.
feelunique.com
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JUNE 2 0 18 GUERLAIN – L’HOMME IDÉAL L’INTENSE 2 LOUIS VUITTON – NOUVEAU MONDE
A mouth-watering concoction of cocoa, honey and saffron entices the senses,
Vuitton-style. £185 for 100ml eau de parfum.
louisvuitton.com
ST GILES – THE TYCOON
Ginger, magnolia and tea. Could this be the smell of success?
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£130 for 100ml eau de parfum.
stgilesfinefragrance.com
BENTLEY – MOMENTUM UNLIMITED Green apple and cardamom create an
SWEET SMELL OF
SUMMER
It’s all change as the success of unisex perfumes is modernising male fragrances
WOR D S PER S O L AI SE T
ake a look at some old photos and it soon becomes clear that although women’s fashions have changed with the passage of time, men’s clothes have largely
remained the same. Give or take the odd collar or sleeve adjustment, guys have worn some form of basic shirt and trousers for decades. Te same could be said of masculine fragrances: since the middle of the 20th century, they have rarely ventured away from the territory of classic woods and citruses. But there’s a whiff of change in the air as perfumers begin to reach for more conventionally feminine ingredients to include in their masculine compositions. Veteran scent-maker Antoine
Maisondieu, who has just composed Legend Night for Mont Blanc, states that as recently as the 1990s, a sweeter material such as vanilla would have been viewed as exclusively feminine. But now, “little by little, it’s moving towards men.” Tat’s why he’s given it pride of place in his Mont Blanc release. It also pops up in the new Colonia Vaniglia from Acqua Di Parma. And other ingredients that are creeping into the boys’ end of the olfactory spectrum include floral notes such as rose, jasmine and lilac, as well as the sweeter, more sensuous varieties of modern musks.
Grant Osborne, editor of the influential
perfume website Basenotes, believes this shiſt has occurred because of the success of “exclusive” unisex collections from high- end brands. “Te rise in the popularity of non-gendered fragrances, particularly the Tom Ford Private Blends and Armani Privé, has given men ‘permission’ to wear scents with more ‘feminine’ notes,” he says. Michael Donovan, founder of the new
St Giles brand, agrees. “I think that men have become a lot more confident about wearing fragrance,” he explains, “and with this confidence comes experimentation. Combine this with the breakdown in gender stereotypes and the result is that modern masculinity refuses to be pigeonholed, and guys feel free to try something new – in this case ingredients traditionally favoured by women.” Tis development can also be seen in
the output of brands such as Bentley, Jaguar and Dunhill, which tend to use stereotypically masculine imagery in their advertising. “Perfume has been used by brands for ‘entry point’ marketing for around 100 years,” Donovan says. “Tese modern brands are doing the same – you might not be able to afford a Bentley car, but the fragrance is part of the brand identity and thus a part of the dream that is more accessible.” BT
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om
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