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and a host of statues, coffee shops, cafés, restaurants and cultural sites, including the Kaohsiung Museum of History. Friendly, style-conscious youngsters mix with families, while joggers and cyclists use the bike paths. You can take a scenic gondola boat ride or hire water skis, and in the evening many bars open up, with musicians setting up along the riverside to entertain the crowds.


4 CIJIN (CHICHIN) ISLAND


Jump in a taxi for the short trip west to Gushan ferry pier, then hop on a boat for the five-minute ride (NT$30/£0.80 one-way) across to Cijin Island, which protects Kaohsiung Harbour from the open sea and was the earliest developed area of the city once known as Takow. A relaxed fishing hamlet, Cijin’s


many points of interest are centred around its northern end and can easily be visited in a looping walk.


bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om


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Close to the Cijin ferry pier is the small but atmospheric Tianhou temple, which was built in 1673 and is Kaohsiung’s oldest. Rows of pretty red lanterns create a shady “porch” area out front, while monks inside tend to the altars. On a rugged bluff near the


northern tip of the island you’ll spot Taiwan’s second oldest lighthouse. Descend the steep steps from here and you’ll be treated to an unexpected sight – a series of huge cliffs against which the full force of the ocean smashes, waves breaking and shooting skyward in a ferocious outburst of water-borne energy. A man-made tunnel through the


cliffs will bring you to the northern end of Cijin Beach, a long, broad strand of black sand that is popular with surfers as well as families. Facing the beach is Seafood Street (Miaoqian Street), a classic set-up of stalls selling everything from


mussels to squid, octopus and myriad fish. Grab some barbecued squid on a stick to snack on as you wander back to the ferry through the entertaining communal bustle.


5 BRITISH CONSULATE


AT TAKOW Back on the mainland, cross the nearby bridge and walk up the hill to finish your day with a classic British aſternoon tea or a sunset drink at the perfectly positioned British Consulate at Takow. Tis meticulously preserved colonial building dates back to 1879 and contains historical exhibitions, a tea lounge, a verandah and gardens with fantastic views. It makes for a cultured end to your day in this surprisingly sophisticated city. Te consulate is open Tues-Fri 10am-7pm (from 9am on weekends); entry NT$99 (£2.50). britishconsulate.khcc.gov.tw BT


MAY/JUNE 20 2 1


JEREMY TREDINNICK; SHIH-WEI/ISTOCK; BRADLEYHEBDON/ISTOCK


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