PROJECT 8
SIMPLICITY COLLET AND SHANK RING | INTERMEDIATE
5: SEAT THE STONE Now we are going to use a stone setting burr to create a seat for the gemstone. Choose a burr the same size as your gemstone.
Put the ring in a ring clamp and put the burr inside the collet from the top down. Make sure it is level or your gemstone will not sit in a straight position. Do this until the gemstone sits nicely with enough prong length to set the gemstone.
6: TIME TO SHINE Next put the ring into a metal barrelling machine for an hour or two to polish it.
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7: SET THE 5
GEMSTONE Now we are ready to set the gemstone, put the ring into a ring clamp and position the gemstone in the collet. Hold the ring clamp still and push one of the prongs against the gemstone. Make sure to push your thumb or fi nger on the opposite side to the prong being pushed to help keep the gemstone in position. Don’t push it too hard, you want to push it just slightly at fi rst.
Now push the prong that is opposite the one you have just pushed, making sure the gemstone is straight and in the right position. Next push the two remaining prongs.
Now that all the prongs have been pushed up against the gemstone it’s time to check its position. If you are happy with the position repeat the above steps but pushing harder this time. If you are not happy with the position of the gemstone use pliers to gently pull back the prongs and reposition the gemstone and start again. Once all the prongs have been pushed against the gemstone and it doesn’t move, push down from the top to make sure you have a very secure setting.
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8: FINISHING If there are any marks left by the bezel pusher use an extra fi ne Evefl ex burr to remove them and then polish the prongs with a polishing compound. You can also put the ring in an ultrasonic cleaner depending on the gemstone used.
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