The hallmark of quality Understanding hallmarks.
The practice of hallmarking is an ancient method of safeguarding consumers and those trading in jewellery and precious metals, such as gold, silver, platinum and also, most recently palladium.
The term itself comes from ‘marking goods at the Goldsmiths’ Hall’ and its history is a fascinating one.
The fact is that gold and silver in their pure form are not suffi ciently durable so, to improve durability, an alloy needs to be created using silver and copper for gold and copper for silver. So, clearly, before the introduction of hallmarks, the opportunity presented itself to dishonest gold and silversmiths for a little, shall we say, sleight of hand!
That is, until, in 1300, Edward I put paid to the dishonest practice of diluting precious metals by having his civil servants set some standards by introducing the fi rst hallmarking system.
Hallmarked, all marked. Amazingly, the UK is one of only a handful of countries worldwide to implement such a rigorous system of quality control.
All articles described as being wholly or partly made of gold, silver, platinum or palladium need to be hallmarked.
Items below a certain weight are exempt from hallmarking. The weight is based on the precious metal content only, excluding, for example, the weight of diamonds or stones in a piece. In the
Hallmark guidance Leaflet 2010 (final artwork):- 20/8/10 14:37 Page 5
What does a Hallmark look like? Hallmark guidance Leaflet 2010 (final artwork):- 20/8/10 14:37 Page 4
Platinum 0.5 grams Gold and palladium 1 gram Silver 7.78 grams
Standards for hallmarking. The precious metal fi neness standard for UK hallmarking (expressed in parts per thousand) for each precious metal, along with the standard of solder allowed, for each individual fi neness, is as follows:
What are the precious metal standards for hallmarking?
Please note: Gold and silver can only be soldered with the same metal. Platinum and palladium can be soldered with one or a combination of all four precious metals as long as the total precious metal (PM) fineness is as indicated below
Silver Alloy
Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold Gold
Silver Silver Silver Silver
Platinum Platinum Platinum Platinum Palladium
Palladium Palladium
Fineness (ppt)
UK 999
990 (Convention not allowed) 916.6 750
750 Filigree or watch case 750 White
585 Yellow, Red 585 White 375
999
958.4 (Convention not allowed) 925 800
999 950 900 850
Permitted Solder (ppt)
750 750 750
Sterling 750 740
500 585
Britannia500 375
650 650 650 650
Minimum PM fineness 999
Minimum PM fineness 950
Minimum PM fineness 900
Minimum PM fineness 850
9993.Assay Office Mark 950
Minimum PM fineness 700
500
Minimum PM fineness 500
Indicates the particular Assay Office at which the article was tested and marked. There are now 4 Assay Offices in the UK - London, Edinburgh, Birmingham and Sheffield.
Minimum PM fineness 700
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Permitted Solder (ppt)
Convention 750
Not available 750 750 740 585 585 585 375
2010 650
Not available 650 550
Minimum PM fineness 800
9 9 9 9 5 0 5 0 0
The precious metal fineness standard for UK hallmarking (expressed in parts per thousand) for each precious metal, along with the standard of solder permitted to be used, for each individual fineness, is listed below. Permitted solders for the hallmarking standards available under the International Hallmarking Convention (common control mark) are also listed.
case of items consisting of both precious and base metal, the exemption weight is based upon the total weight. This exemption weight is set at:
A Hallmark is made up of 3 compulsory symbols:
1.The Sponsor’s or Maker’s Mark
This indicates the maker or sponsor of the article. In the UK this mark consists of at least two letters within a shield. No two marks are the same.
2.Metal and fineness (purity) Mark
Understanding the symbols. A hallmark is made up of three compulsory symbols. The fi rst is the sponsor’s or maker’s mark. Each of these is unique and consists of at least two letters within a shield. Secondly, the metal and fi neness (or ‘purity’) mark tells us the precious metal content of the item and that it is not less than the fi neness stipulated, while the metal type itself is illustrated by the shape of the surround. Finally, the assay offi ce mark indicates the assay offi ce at which the item was tested and marked. There is also a range of optional marks that can be applied alongside the hallmark if requested, including traditional fi neness symbols and the date letter, which has also counted as an optional addition since 1999.
A B 925
Assay offi ce customers will need to register with their local offi ce.
Indicates the precious metal content of the article and that it is not less than the fineness of the article indicated. The fineness is indicated by a millesimal number (parts per thousand) and the metal type is indicated by the shape of the surround.
Palladium Gold
Gold gets fashionable again. With the rising cost of precious metals, the number of items being sent for hallmarking has dropped considerably in recent years. However, there are signs that these precious metals which have, after all, been the mainstay of the jewellery maker’s art for thousands of years, are starting to make a comeback. And one thing’s for certain, Gold and silver will never totally lose their popularity and, in the UK at least, as jewellery makers and lovers of beautiful jewellery, we’ll always have the hallmark system to protect us.
A B Platinum 9 carat 14 carat 18 carat
For more information on Hallmarking go to the Bench online.
22 carat
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