18 Nation’s Favourites On the hunt
One of a handful of truffl e farmers in the UK, Mike Collison grows the fungi in his Shropshire orchard, seeking them out with the help of his dog, Oscar. Words: Jez Fredenburgh
“You get lost in your own world in the truffl e orchard,” says Mike Collison. “It’s peaceful and you never know what you’re going to fi nd.” Working their way along neat rows of oak, hazel, pine and beech trees, Mike and his specially bred, truffl e-hunting dog, Oscar, an Italian Lagotto Romagnolo, are searching for burgundy truffl es — one of the world’s most expensive, most sought-after fungi. Oscar, nose to the ground, paws when he’s sniff ed one out, indicating where Mike should dig. “T ey’re knobbly-looking things,”
says Mike. “T ey can be the size of a pea or an orange, close to the surface or three to four inches down. At this time of year [June], we’ll harvest two to three kilos in
A TRUFFLE FROM THE MORNING FORAGE
MIKE AND HIS DOG, OSCAR, IN THE ORCHARD
19TH JUNE 2023 FOOD & DRINK DISTRIBUTED WITH
40 minutes — after that, Oscar’s had enough and so have I.” T e truffl es are then washed, graded, trimmed of any over-ripe parts and sent to chefs around Shropshire. Mike, who runs Shropshire
Truffl es with his wife Michelle, fi rst tried truffl e hunting in France’s Loire Valley in 2006, and was inspired to set up a farm of his own. In 2008, the couple planted 1,500 trees in their four-acre orchard, overlooking the village of Stapleton. Each had been inoculated with truffl e spores; as the saplings grew, the fungi worked through the roots from which they’d eventually grow. And although Mike believes his is now the most high-yielding truffl e orchard in the country, the couple had a nail-biting 10 years waiting for their fi rst harvest. “I wasn’t sure if I was planting
something that would grow into a business or just an oak forest,” says Mike. “A friend with a truffl e- hunting dog came after year seven and didn’t fi nd many. T en, in year nine, a badger got in and dug loads up!” A decade in, Oscar was introduced, and after a slow start, became a truffl e-hunting machine. “When he’s found a good one, he’ll roll onto his tummy,” says Mike. Harvest begins in June, when
the truffl e fl avour is mushroomy and the fl esh inside still white. By August, they’re darker and with a more intense aroma and brown- white marbling inside. “I like mine grated onto steak or a poached egg, but lots of chefs we supply use it on pasta or in risottos,” says Mike. Now the wait for his truffl es is
over, Mike can enjoy the magic of his orchard. “Oscar and I sometimes
This is Golf. Opened Up.
stop, sit under a tree and take it all in — when I think about it, I’m quite proud of what I’ve created.” shropshiretruffl
es.co.uk
First published in the Autumn 2022 issue of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read the feature in full at
nationalgeographic.com/travel
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