WATER
FRANCE A SINGULAR STEAMY WELLNESS RITUAL
Down a narrow lane in the heart of Paris’s 15th arrondissement, what appears at first glance to be an upscale beauty salon offering bespoke facials and body treatments is, in fact, the home of France’s first banya. This traditional Eastern European steam bath — a blend of the Nordic sauna and the hammam of the East — was set up in Paris by two women of Ukrainian and Russian descent. Unable to enjoy this deep-rooted mind and body ritual in their adopted home, Bella Labèque and Eléna Dimitrenko opened Kupala Banya Spa in 2022. And what a spa it is. Eager to experience the mystery of the banya,
I’m led down a narrow wooden staircase by one of the founders. In a changing room outfitted in raw timber, I slip into a light cotton bathrobe and rubber pantofles and am greeted by a burly man wrapped in a towel, introduced as one of the four steam masters. The conversation is scant — I reply in Polish to his Russian — but his knowledge and passion shine through, his face a picture of wisdom and tranquillity. It’s warm and peaceful, the sound of a crackling
fire providing a soothing backdrop, but the heat is turned up as soon as I’m led into a small wooden room, known as a parilka, and am flipped expertly from my back to my stomach, the steam master guiding every step. With the temperature between 50 and 75C and humidity at 60%, beads of sweat break out all over my body and I drift between sleep and waking, the feeling of inner calm deepening with every inhalation of pine, eucalyptus and grapefruit. Inhale. And, exhale. My growing euphoria is interrupted when the
Left: Sauna and plunge pool at Kupala Banya Spa
flogging begins. Known as branch sweeping, this part of the ritual is the most surprising, but undoubtedly the most stimulating. The steam
master works methodically, sweeping bundles of oak and birch branches up and down my body, before whipping my back and legs with surprising force. Now fully immersed in the emotional journey,
I’m led to a soothing waterfall shower, then to a wooden barrel filled with frigid water, into which I’m directed to submerge my entire body. All of my senses are briskly reawakened, and I’m informed that a few well-choreographed rounds are enough to stimulate blood circulation, improve the immune system and open the skin’s pores. This watery dance between hot and cold
continues until I’m led to a steamy relaxation room where a hay-filled bed shares the space with a bed suspended by ropes from the ceiling. As I lie there, slowly swinging in this cabin-like space, eyes closed and motionless, I feel a profound sensation of weightlessness, allowing my body and mind to soar. What feels like hours later, the steam master
rouses me from this blissful trance, clearly pleased with his technique. The final step is a cleansing body scrub made of honey, salt, herbs and fruit, and as I lie upon a cool marble slate, my body feels renewed and invigorated. Within the space of three hours, I feel lighter,
more luminous and, above all, detoxified. It’s clear that a banya is much more than a wellness experience — it’s an ancient tradition that unites the body and mind. KASIA DIETZ
HOW TO DO IT: A two-hour banya experience at Kupala Banya Spa costs around £230 per person and includes access to every water-based experience, as well as a dedicated steam master who’ll guide guests through their journey.
kupala.fr
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – SPA & WELLNESS COLLECTION 33
IMAGE: SPA KUPALA, PARIS
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