ALPINE GEMS
WHEN:
This south facing, mid-altitude rock ridge dries very quickly and, given the aspect, it comes into condition very quickly after the winter, or following a snowstorm. However, depending on the snowpack of the season, the glacial access and descent may become complicated later in the summer season.
GEAR:
2 x 50m ropes, #0.3 – 2 cams, nuts, slings, crampons + 1 axe. Rock shoes useful but not essential. Glacier travel equipment.
APPROACH:
It is a mountaineering route just to reach the bivouac. This is especially delicate in winter and spring when the rock buttress where the fixed ropes are located are covered in snow. Cross the Doire de Ferret river at a bridge 600m NNE of where the Torrent de Frébouze enters the river. Follow this path to ~2,250m where it crosses the Torrent and ascends a buttress via fixed lines. Follow the path and snow patches to the base of the Bivacco Gervasutti buttress, and ascend this via fixed lines. The bivouac has beds for 12 people. The lights and electric induction stove are powered by solar panels, though when these are covered by snow, devices may not function. The next morning, redescend onto the glacier and ascend this NW to the combe on the SW flank of the Petites Jorasses.
30m / IV 25m / IV+
50m / III+
ROUTE: 28m / IV-
Cross the rimaye and head 100m up the 45º snow slope, then traverse R onto a large snowy/rock terrace leading to the south ridge. Climb 40m up the snow slope or rock steps to gain a ledge.
1. 25m II / IV Either climb up the depression above (III) or head for the crest for 25m (IV).
2. 40m III+ Ascend the depression on the SW flank then traverse back to the crest to find a good ledge on the E face.
3. 25m IV- Climb up the crest initially on the R, then on the L side until you gain a small ledge 15m below the orange overhang L of the crest.
30m / V
orange corner & overhang
4. 30m V Ascend the corner to the roof (pitons) and exit awkwardly R (V) to a ledge. Climb just L of the crest past one ledge to a second ledge with a piton and bolt belay.
5. 30m IV Ascend near the crest on the L then R to belay on a spike on the crest.
25m / IV- ledge
6. 25m IV+ Climb just R of the crest to gain a ledge with a double bolt belay.
7. 28m IV- Climb just L of the crest to gain a slabby terrace.
40m / III+
8. 50m III+ Continue up the easy crest to a final step that is passed just R of a large crack. Exit onto a large ledge below the snow crest.
9. Climb the snowy SE crest for 150m to the base of the rocky summit, and climb up L to gain the top (II+).
DESCENT: 25m / III IV
Words and photos: Ben Tibbetts is an IFMGA mountain guide and a photographer, artist and writer based in Chamonix, France. His 2019 book, ALPENGLOW, documents his ascents of all 82 of the 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps.
www.bentibbets.com
The normal descent is via the snowy ENE flank (PD+ in descent). Descend E for 100m to the top of a slabby rock band. Depending on snow cover, either make a 25m rappel, or downclimb this (III). Continue down the ENE snow slope to the rock ledge at the bottom of the snow crest (c. 3270m). Locate a piton anchor that allows you to rappel the steep 40m rock buttress north onto the glacier. Head N then E then SE around huge crevasses, and then continue SE then S to gain the rock buttress above the Bivacco Gervasutti and follow the approach back to the valley. Alternative descents include making 14 rappels (45m max.) down modern routes in the SE face (re-equipped in 2023), or traversing to the Aiguille de Leschaux and descending its normal route.
28 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.
ESSENTIAL INFO
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