56 | HEIDI’S CARCATION - PART 3
www.nitravelnews.com ENGLAND FAMILY CARCATION
A three-hour drive north past Bath and Bristol lead us to Tewkesbury, the first of two Cotswold overnights and home to, yes, you’ve guessed it, a magnificent 12 th century Abbey.
Following King
Henry VIII’s Dissolution, Tewkesbury Abbey was saved by the townspeople who bought it for £453 - or £350k in today’s money. Its 45m high and 14m sq Norman Tower is England’s largest
BY HEIDI MCALPIN MAGNIFICENT cathedrals, majestic
stately homes and inspirational vistas have wowed us at every turn on our epic car journey round England. Taking our own transport on Stena from Belfast to Birkenhead has allowed us to navigate motorways and minor roads to get the most from our jam-packed two-week tour.
As we say farewell to an unforgettable three days on the Isle of Wight, it’s time to board the smaller Wightlink car ferry and sail back to the mainland and onwards to our penultimate destination. Ahead of us, though, was a quintessential English scene even I hadn’t factored into my meticulous itinerary.
En route to Salisbury and straddling a sizeable chunk of southern England lies the New Forest, famed for its wild ponies roaming the ancient landscape. I was looking forward to seeing a few horses merrily grazing in the fields. What I didn’t envisage were herds of them casually ambling
past stationary
traffic. Even the ever-present, erm, wastage in their wake added a potent allure to this most entrancing of equine scenes. We decided to break the journey with lunch at Burley, a village steeped in witchcraft and festooned with shops selling all manner of supernatural souvenirs. Scarlett was in her element choosing spooky gifts for likeminded mates. Even more magical, though, were those ponies moseying around the lanes and photobombing day- trippers. A most unexpected and truly memorable stop as we headed onwards for our next overnight.
Salisbury is a medieval city whose great Cathedral boasts England’s tallest spire at a neck-straining 123 metres. Following several decades of restoration, scaffolding was removed in 2023 to reveal the cathedral in all its gothic glory. The epic exterior is matched in scale and grandeur by its monumental interior, and everything about it - inside and out - was the sole reason for our trip. Ray loves an ecclesiastical edifice, and I can fully appreciate their historical allure. Scarlett and Freddie may not share our enthusiasm, but I only hope their teenage nonchalance will transform into happy holiday memories. Still, the café always delivers a cracking slab of cake. A delightful tour guide revealed
centuries of curios, from the world’s oldest mechanical clock (still ticking after more than 700 years) to the stunning contemporary font reflecting spectacular stained-glass windows. The cathedral’s most notable item, however, is the 1215 Magna Carta – the best preserved of only four still in existence. This historic document gave people freedom and rights and is said to have inspired the American Constitution. So precious is the parchment that it is housed in a darkened tent within the beautiful Chapter House. A multimedia exhibition reveals its impact and legacy and consolidates its enduring global significance.
A walk round the city centre rounds off our cultural sojourn with some good old fashioned 21 st century shopping and lunch at the oak-panelled Boston Tea Party cafe. As the sun set on our day in Salisbury, we took the half hour train to the neighbouring village of Tisbury where our Air B&B awaited our weary souls. Or should that be soles? Our feet were walked off us.
When celebrities want to escape the media circus, many head for the Cotswolds. Everyone from Kate Moss to the Beckhams have made this picture postcard part of England home.
Jeremy
Clarkson has also put his distinct mark on the area with his hugely popular farm and brewery.
It’s the last stop on our two-week trip and hopes are high for this grand finale.
and, like Salisbury Cathedral, the Abbey dominates the skyline and surrounding area in quite an awe-inspiring way. Having immersed ourselves in all things medieval, it was time to chill out at the altogether more modern Tewkesbury Park Hotel. A few minutes’ walk from the Abbey, this family-owned spa and golf retreat is on the site of the 1471 Battle of Tewkesbury, a pivotal moment in the War of the Roses. Even on a tranquil overnight, there’s no escaping the centuries-old significance of this green and pleasant land. Each of our two elegantly furnished double rooms featured
private patios
overlooking the fairway and provided blissful respite from all the sightseeing. The pool and hot tub delivered an hour’s aquatic downtime, shoring us up for our evening meal. Delicious dishes were duly devoured as we watched the sun set over the rolling Cotswolds hills. A special mention must go to my Himalayan goat curry… the most fragrant and tender meal I have tasted in a long time.
After a dreamy sleep and hearty breakfast, we were refuelled and ready to reconvene our Cotswolds road trip. Ahead lay towns and villages with beguiling monikers such as Upper Slaughter and Stow-on-the-Wold. Honey-hued cottages and chocolate box scenes enchant at every turn. So, it’s no surprise that these winding lanes and quaint destinations are brimming with visitors, keen to see why this area has attracted so many famous residents. Herding us cash cows is deftly handled, with car parks within walking distance of all the main sites. First stop for us was Bourton-on-the-Water where wee stone bridges and weeping willows frame the river and provide tourists with insta-worthy moments.
Scarlett and I scuttled round antique shops while the boys loomed large over the meticulously crafted Model Village. Next
January 2025
HEIDI MCALPIN is on the final leg of her Family Carcation round England with husband Ray and children Scarlett (17) and Freddie (14.) In the third and final installment, the family explores Salisbury before concluding their carcation in the Cotswolds....
up were the ominously named Upper and Lower Slaughter (fear not, it means ‘wet land’ in olde English) where yet more adorable cottages and village squares awaited. En route to the larger, yet
no less captivating, Stow- on-the-Wold, we stopped at Hawkstone Brewery
where
a large mural of owner Jeremy Clarkson implored us to purchase
a six-pack. How could we resist? Each of these distinctly Cotswolds destinations were everything I imagined them to be. It’s easy to see why everything from Downton Abbey to Bridget Jones’s Diary have been filmed here. And we had one last pastoral pitstop to make courtesy of another local hero. When he’s not presenting
BBC’s Countryfile, farmer Adam Henson is often at Cotswold Farm Park, his 650-hectare estate which combines rare breeds,
rural
conservation and a fabulous array of glamping overnights. We stayed at the sweetly named Songbird Safari Tent and enjoyed the perfect end to our family vacay. After indulging in yummy burgers and loaded fries at the on-site Ox Shed bar & restaurant, we pegged out in our double and bunk beds and drifted off under the canvas for a cosy night’s kip.
As morning broke it was time to fully explore our countryside setting. A Rare Breed Trail gets you nose to snout with all manner of fauna, among them fluffy chicks, giddy goats and hirsute highland cattle. And a glorious wildflower meadow coming into bloom just ahead of the busy summer season rounded off this memorable pastoral escape. Before we said goodbye and started our three-hour drive to the Stena ferry, there was time for one last
stop. Broadway
Tower is an 18 th century folly designed by famous landscaper Capability Brown and sitting proudly atop the Cotswolds’ second highest hill. Views from the parapet span 16 counties and the exquisitely furnished Georgian interior is just as impressive. A café, shop, roaming red deer and, bizarrely, a Cold War nuclear bunker complete this eclectic stopover. Our fortnight’s holiday now officially
over, we arrived at Birkenhead and made our weary way to the comfy Stena cabin. As our overnight sailing spirited us back to Belfast, we dreamt of medieval cathedrals, wild ponies… and Jeremy Clarkson’s beer. Another incredible road trip round England done and dusted… and so much more left to explore. Next year? Why not!
FACT BOX
StenaLine from Belfast to Birkenhead:
www.stenaline.co.uk Salisbury Cathedral:
www.salisburycathe-
dral.org.uk Tewkesbury Abbey: www.tewkesburyab-
bey.org.uk Tewkesbury Park Hotel: www.tewkes-
burypark.co.uk Cotswold Farm Park: cotswoldfarmpark.
co.uk
Broadway Tower:
broadwaytower.co.uk
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