20 | THE CHARM OF TUNISIA


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Tunisia: Modern Comfort, Ancient Splendour A Haven for Cosmopolitan Wanderers and Sun-seekers


January 2025


The clifftop on the town’s limits plummets with breath-taking views. Yes, you will encounter souvenir shops, but you will also find courtyards of jasmine and Bougainvillea and cafes of Shiska-smoking, espresso- sipping men. Although a male- dominated past-time, one can forget Tunisia is a leader in women’s rights. What makes Tunisia particularly appealing, is its seamless blend of history. Visitors from other shores have made Tunisia a melange of cultures, the


Paul Wilson explores Enfidha, Tunisia and


witnesses how modern comfort and ancient splendour intertwine throughout this popular holiday destination.


BY PAUL WILSON


WHILE basking on the pristine beaches of Tunisia’s east coast, you might not realise you’re lounging at the crossroads of civilisation. Amid private swim-up pools and swaying beach palms, these shores once welcomed Phoenician traders, Roman merchants, and Arab scholars. These cultural layers – where old meets new


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makes Tunisia particularly appealing to the culturally curious as well as those in search of winter sun. The modern resort area around Hammamet offers more than just Mediterranean comforts. The town of Enfidha, a few miles inland from the Gulf of Hammamet, serves as an ideal launch pad for cultural exploration. Within easy reach lie some of the ancient world’s most significant sites, making it possible to combine morning beach relaxation with afternoon historical wanderings. So, it’s easy to base yourself in an upscale


resort as a base to venture beyond its confines. One such is Enfidha’s One Resort Premium. The pristine Mediterranean beaches of Tunisia’s east coast stretch along the Sousse- Monastir area and around Hammamet, at the base of the Cap Bon Peninsula. One Resort is a premium option. It combines modern luxury with Tunisian charm. Signature rooms offer direct pool access from private terraces. September-November, the weather is pleasant and good for beach, pool – and excursions. El Jem, is just one of the many interesting


places off the beaten track from this small but pleasant beach resort. This magnificent amphitheatre has a commanding presence: one can imagine gladiators emerging from its arches. This is where ancient combaters came to fight to the death, and modern film makers to shoot the Hollywood blockbuster Gladiator, starring Russell Crowe. Gladiators also came here to put on a great show and the scale of El Jem is an epic demonstration of Roman power and showmanship. At the heart of the desert town of El Jem, its chaotic bustle has wild-west appeal; box-piled scooters and dusty cars, vie for space. A UNESCO world heritage site, is visited by three million people a year. Sitting on ancient sandstone steps under a cornflower-blue sky scattered with clouds, you are merely three hours from the Libyan border. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is easily accessible thanks to Tunisia’s ambitious road network. By road, traverse verdant flatlands and skirt the Atlas Mountains, passing through ancient olive groves where


harvesting methods remain unchanged for centuries, techniques preserved through generations. The same road network means you can combine beach mornings with cultural afternoons; First, seek out a traditional Hammam or a relaxing spa; Later, visit archaeological sites and explore contemporary art galleries and historic buildings. Or vice versa. “Tunisia is enchanting”, says the writer Lisa Anderson, in ‘Tunisia: An Arab Anomaly.’ And YES, it is: “A country of pleasant coastal sea breezes, gentle winter rains in the north and warm, bright sun in the interior plains and southern desert, it has long entranced visitors. From the ancient Phoenician colonists who founded Carthage…” The exact founding of Carthage remains a mystery. It nestles on the coast amid suburban houses of contemporary wealth – and has a strange atmosphere of the abandoned. Shrines to children, who were perhaps sacrificed ritually, lead the way to the main ruins, along an ancient, cobbled road to The Baths of Carthage, the largest Roman thermae built on the African Continent. It’s tempting to say little has changed: we still go in search of spa treatments more exotic than the last. After the fall of Carthage, Roman and Byzantine sites sprung up, and many ancient mosaics from across Tunisia were excavated and reconstructed at Tunis’s, Bardo Museum. It houses what experts consider the world’s finest collection of Roman-era mosaics. The centrepiece of the mosaic and museum collection is of the Roman poet Virgil found


to democracy. Today, at the Parliament Buildings beside the Bardo Museum, you sense this ongoing evolution. Security personnel and sleek official vehicles remind visitors of Tunisia’s position as a democracy navigating change. Security is tight and Tunisia’s latest election results


influence of Spain, Italy and Turkey can be seen in the architecture, arts, crafts and music; the medinas of Tunis, Kairouan and Sousse, dazzle with their colours, sights and sounds. Luxury resorts provide familiar comforts while within hours, move from a contemporary spa treatment to exploring ancient medinas, from a beachfront breakfast to lunch in a centuries- old courtyard. A shorter flight from Belfast than Malta or the Canaries – roughly 3.5 hours – this North African gem offers


an ideal escape for winter sun seekers and culture vultures. Direct flights operate from Belfast to Hammamet International Airport. The best times to visit are Spring (March- May) when temperatures hover around 20- 25C and Autumn (September-November) during the olive harvest. Winter brings mild temperatures perfect for exploring archaeological sites, while summer (July- August) attracts beachgoers despite temperatures reaching 35C and (often) higher.


in a villa at Sousse depicting the poet working on writing his epic poem The Aeneid. It’s spectacular in scale and detail – as are the rest marvels of intricacy and storytelling and the historian Kenneth Perkins notes, these ancient artworks find their twenty- first-century home in a fourteenth-century palace. Perhaps a perfect metaphor for Tunisia itself. Tunisia’s 2011 Jasmine Revolution (al-


thawra al-Tunisiya) marked the beginning of the Arab Spring and the country’s transition


remain controversial. The United States Institute of Peace states: “Tunisia’s transition to democracy remains under stress. Yet this edginess makes the capital appealing to the adventurous and culturally curious. It’s colourful and cosmopolitan (in parts) and sometimes poverty rubs up against the pecuniary. Chapel, church and mosque sit beside each other comfortably. Avenue Bourguiba is Tunis’s main thoroughfare. It leads to both to the central business district and to Boulevard Bab Souika and Bab Jazira, to the Old Medina, also a UNESCO world heritage site. Navigating this warren of sights and smells is intoxicating; of course, you face hawkers and traders, where spices and perfumes can be haggled for. A welcome rest in a coffee shop is a moment to drink it in. Coffee is served in small paper cups. It’s an artform, to sip one and take your time. The locals still enjoy smoking. Fugs of smoke hang languorously in the air. The capital’s sophistication expresses itself eloquently through its cuisine. The spice mix Tabil, brought by Muslims fleeing Andalusia in 1492. Mechouia: Grilled vegetable salad; Brik: Crispy pastry with egg and tuna; Tajine: Different from Moroccan version; often with lamb or white fish, such as Grouper: Sweet doughnut-like pastry, Lablabi: Chickpea soup can be a popular breakfast dish. Of course, couscous is a staple. A more chilled experience can be found perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Tunis – Sidi Bou Said, perhaps Tunisia’s most picturesque town. Its distinctive architecture – white-washed walls and blue doors and windows – creates a mesmerising contrast against the Mediterranean backdrop, drawing inevitable comparisons to Greek Island of Santorini. This colour scheme long predates the tourist era. In his diaries, on a trip to Tunisia, the artist Paul Klee, rapt by the colours and shapes, noted: “After lunch an Easter Monday drive in the car to Sidi-Bou-Said. The town lies so beautifully up there and looks far over the sea, which accompanies us with its deep breathing as we climb. Stopped by a garden gate and began a watercolour sketch… Then back to the little town.” The little town is pedestrian-friendly but involves steep climbs – so wear comfortable shoes – the cobblestones can be challenging.


ONE Resort Premium ONE Resort Premium bills itself as a jewel nestled on the enchanting shores of the Mediterranean Sea in Hammamet. It doesn’t disappoint. In the heart of the natural beauty of the Tunisian coast it offers luxury and relaxation. With one and two-storey buildings, the sky is on constant offer, while the sea and horizon – gentle-start mornings, sunset evenings. The beach is private, while long walks can be taken along its further reaches and dromedary jaunts can be taken on camel. Due to an extensive and contemporary refurbishment, all rooms are well-appointed and run the price range from standard to Presidential Suite; a double with own jacuzzi can be had. The writer stayed in a double- room with swim-up pool (adults only) giving privacy and tranquillity. All-inclusive, there are three main restaurants, The main Méridien offers buffet meals, children’s menu and theme nights. The Italian, La Cucina, modern a la carte; Fogo de Chaoa, offering Brazilian cuisine. The writer dined at Foga de Chaoa, a mouth- watering blend of perfectly cooked meats and sides. Three bars: The Lobby Bar, Beach Bar and Tapas Bar offer a wide choice of soft drinks, coffee and tea, fruit juices and cocktails, local alcoholic beverages, draft beer and table wines. Two pools, the main pool – and an infinity


pool looking out over the beach offers spectacular views. There is a dedicated spa, with a multitude of treatments while a gym, outdoor yoga arena and a brand new padel court are there for daily exercise. The staff are attentive friendly which


makes the service and atmosphere instantly appealing for children and adults, the ideal luxury base to explore Eastern Tunisia.


easyJet flies from Belfast


International to Enfidha all year round, with prices starting from £30.13 per person, one way. easyJet holidays offers seven nights at the 4* One Resort Premium in Tunisia on an All Inclusive basis for £334 per person including 23k of luggage per person, transfers and flights from Belfast International on the 25 March 2025.


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