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and how the astonishing underwater eco-system interacts. At just over £13, it’s a bargain. It’s a mistake to assume Tropical North Queensland is just about the Reef, though. To the west, the Atherton Tablelands offers an odd mix of food producers, rainforest walks and wildlife attractions. The animal experiences go from very touristy in Kuranda – cuddle a koala, walk through butterfly and bird enclosures – to wild, unflustered birdwatching in the Mareeba Wetlands. Those rainforests get considerably


thicker to the north, where the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area is thought to have the oldest rainforest on Earth, boasting examples of almost every stage of plant evolution. This is best experienced on boardwalks north of the Daintree River on the way up to Cape Tribulation, an engaging, off-the-grid jungle settlement.


w SEE: DRIVE AND DIVE Several companies offer day trips up to Cape Tribulation from Cairns. These usually stop at the Daintree River for a crocodile-spotting cruise on the way. There are dozens of crocs in the river, and they can often be spotted sunning themselves on the banks. Other highlights include the


hugely photogenic Mossman Gorge, interpretive boardwalks and a stroll along the wild, picture-perfect beach where the mountains of the Great Dividing Range reach the sea at Cape Tribulation. Travel 2 sells a day trip from either Cairns or Port Douglas from £136 per person. Those self-driving to Cape Trib can use it as a base for a small-group trip out to the Reef, which is only about 12 miles offshore up here. Ocean Safari offers a trip to the Mackay Reef in a small RIB, with snorkels, fins and wetsuits provided, from £84. The reef trips from Cairns and Port Douglas tend to be much bigger affairs, with Quicksilver Cruises providing an excellent all-rounder’s option with pick-ups from both towns. It heads out on a sleek catamaran that moors alongside a large pontoon next to Agincourt Reef. This is on the outer edge of the Great Barrier Reef system, and in much better condition than a lot of the spots on the inner reef. The basic package – sold by Anzcro for £167 – includes fantastically vivid snorkelling and an underwater viewing trip in a semi-submersible boat. However, it can be upgraded to include dives and even a helicopter trip. The latter can be booked separately.


Great Barrier Reef Helis offers a 60-minute rainforest and reef flight from Cairns – sold by Austravel from £429 – which is well worth splashing out on. Seeing the reef from above is a phenomenal experience. The range of colours – from deep navy blues to dazzling teals – is staggering, and it’s often possible to spot groups of turtles swimming below. To see the Atherton Tablelands


properly, it’s probably best to hire a car, grab a map and hop between forest trails and food producers. It’s easy to make a day of it on a looping circuit, taking in ice cream makers, coffee plantations and even vineyards making wine from mangoes. A lot of these producers have


LEFT: QT Port Douglas


112 travelweekly.co.uk 25 January 2018


stalls or shops in Kuranda, though, and Austravel sells a trip to the town. Offering travel by scenic railway on the way up, plenty of free time to mooch around Kuranda and a ride on the Skyrail cable car on the way down,


PICTURES: TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND/ANDREWWATSON; PETER LIK


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