CANADA NOVA SCOTIA DESTINATIONS A newlight


Go beyond the Cabot Trail to find the stories that have shaped Nova Scotia, writes Katie McGonagle


@katie_mcgonagle “T


his is the high street, don’t blink,” says our guide


Paul, as we turn into the quiet, waterfront road that passes for Annapolis Royal’s main highway. Edged with clapboard houses


in pastel hues, dainty rose gardens, tiny independent inns and arty boutiques, it’s a blink- and-you’ll-miss-it sort of town. But in Canada, known for its open spaces and towering scenery, that’s all part of the


charm. Even in the maritime province of Nova Scotia – which usually makes it into brochures only for the high tides in the Bay of Fundy, the scenery of the Cabot


Trail or the iconic lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove – the chance to uncover a cultural, historical side makes a refreshing change.


w ANNAPOLIS ROYAL You’d hardly know this was once the thriving capital of Nova Scotia, home to one of the oldest European settlements in North America, starting off as an outpost for French immigrants in 1605, and passing – along with the rest of the country – back and forth between French and


British hands in the centuries that followed. Needless to say, it was under British control when it was renamed Annapolis Royal, for the monarch of the day, Queen Anne. Yet a late-night tour of the


graveyard alongside Fort Anne Historic Site, right on the waterfront, shows a different side to this once-busy trading centre. Candlelit lanterns in hand, we follow guide Alan Melanson (pictured) – a 10th-generation Acadian,


Historical tour guide Alan Melanson


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