FOOD & DRINK PORTUGAL DESTINATIONS O


ne question keeps running through my mind during the


time I spend in Portugal, home to two of history’s most influential explorers, Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. Why were they so eager to leave? Travelling south on Intrepid


Travel’s new food tour around Portugal, it’s fair to say the pair leave quite an impression. Arriving in the former capital


of Porto, I discover a city decorated in ornate tiles from top to bottom, with a bustling town centre and impressive hilltop views. And for every example of aesthetic splendour, there’s


a restaurant, cafe or grocery store packing a culinary punch. Historically agricultural and


cooler than the south, northern Portugal’s cuisine is known for its hearty plates, distinct from the salted dishes in the south. Our first dish, however, is a national staple. The francesinha is a sandwich filled with sausage, bacon, steak and covered in cheese, so it (literally) isn’t for the faint of heart – perhaps recommend a health check prior to travel for those planning to indulge in too many of these. From there, we snake through the busy streets of central Porto,


sampling everything from bifana (pork steak roll in juicy sauce) at working men’s favourite Conga, to port and smoked meats at Comer e Chorar Por Mais, a grocer’s that has served locals and travellers alike since 1916. The city is lively enough. Bop


cafe is a highlight in the evenings, with its retro vinyl behind the bar and wide selection of beers. However, in general Porto is a laidback affair, with evening meals more likely to be long and languid – and all the better for it. The slow food at Flor dos Congregados restaurant, in particular, proves worth the wait.


w A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT Wedged between our two nights in Porto is a trip through the Douro Valley, and as we drive through the hills, I notice several English names on vineyard slopes: port manufacturers that have been here for centuries, harking back to the 1703 Methuen Treaty between England and Portugal. One of the oldest trade deals in the world, it made exports cheaper and heralded the development of port, which was first produced as a way of preserving wine on the high seas. Interesting as the valley is for history buffs, today


14 September 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 71


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