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HOTELS, RESORTS & SPAS BEIJING DESTINATIONS


experience in itself. Access to the wall, which traces the crests of the hilltops, is by shuttle bus, small cable car or open chairlift, and there’s an option to descend by toboggan. An added extra for those riding the cable car is spotting the names of famous people who have hitched a ride in the orange pods. These are emblazoned on the outside and include former first lady Michelle Obama. Ascent by cable car and return


by toboggan tickets are around £9. It’s worth noting the last section of the wall is deceptively steep, and may be too strenuous for older or less-fit travellers.


w 798 ART ZONE Set in a decommissioned Mao-era factory complex, this impressive art hub showcases the city’s edgy, creative side. Indeed, some would argue that the area itself, a steampunk-esque vision of hangars, hissing pipes and a stationary locomotive, is art in itself, before even setting foot in any of the myriad galleries here. The place also offers lots of


cool cafes and coffee houses, which are perfect pit stops for those planning a few hours here. Ucca is one of the big noises, with its immense exhibition halls and super-cool design store. Other highlights include the 798 Art Factory, where Chinese and international art exhibitions are installed in a hangar-like space amid concrete pillars bearing 1950s Maoist slogans; and Sui Jianguo’s quirky open- air sculpture featuring a surreal stack of caged dinosaurs. Agents should note that some galleries, including Ucca, charge for entrance and many are closed on Mondays. Navigation of the area is helped by the many English signboards.


w HUTONG TOUR Hutongs are the mazes of traditional one-storey brick buildings and courtyards that once covered the entire city, and are now scattered throughout the capital. A rickshaw ride


RIGHT:


Our hutong tour offered the chance to meet the Yuan family, who produce and sell hand-cut paper art


through the atmospheric narrow streets feels a world away from the skyscrapers of the CBD, and many tours include a visit to a hutong dweller or business owner. Ours, with local operator the China Culture Center, offered the chance to meet the Yuan family, who produce and sell delicate hand-cut paper art. Prices average around £35 each for groups of eight.


w TEA-TASTING CEREMONY Tea production originated in China and cha dao, the art of preparing and making tea, is an important part of the culture. We visited Dr Tea, a traditional- style tea house in the Chao Yang district for a tea-tasting ceremony with a hostess who explains the different properties of the teas, served in tiny cups. The jasmine tea was light and


delicate, and said to be good for relieving headaches, while the pu’er tea proved more of a challenge, though if you can


Jingyang hutong


BELOW:


Ucca gallery in the 798 Art District


stomach the fermented tea’s earthy taste, it’s said to regulate blood pressure and is a weight- loss aid. The tea tasting is free, but be aware that visitors are shown out via an expensive shop and given a fairly hard sell on the teas they’ve just sipped.


w CYCLING Pedalling around Beijing isn’t for the faint-hearted, but there are many dedicated bike lanes where you can join locals zipping past gridlocked traffic. Hordes of cyclists are everywhere in the city and dockless bike schemes have flourished in the past year – around 50,000 are on the streets – each with distinguishable


colours. Deposits range from around £10 for Bluegogo (yes, they’re cobalt blue) to around £30 for MoBike (grey with red tyres) and all charge about 12p per hour. Set-up is simple, accessed via an app and QR code. The subway is another whizzy


way to get around the city. The system was just 32 miles long in 2001 but a massive construction boom took place ahead of the 2008 Olympics. Between 2007 and 2014, Beijing added 235 miles of routes – a length greater than the entire New York City subway system – creating a super-efficient way for tourists to navigate the city. Information kiosks are available in most stations.


Getting there


We flew business class with Air France via Paris Charles de Gaulle. It’s a super-chic affair, featuring new lie-flat beds and a 1-2-1 cabin configuration so each passenger has direct aisle access. Dining comes courtesy of Michelin-starred chefs. Air France offers 10 weekly flights to Beijing from eight UK airports. Fares from £388 in economy, £906 in premium economy and £1,980 in business. airfrance.co.uk


12 April 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 59


PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK


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