DESTINATIONS INDIAN OCEAN | ZANZIBAR
WHAT’S NEW
E Matemwe Attitude’s second beach area is now complete, with Fukwe beach shack serving up drinks and casual plates, including mishikaki Tanzanian skewers.
ABOVE: Mamas of Zanzibar offers a taste of local culture through women’s eyes (left); Stone Town PICTURES: Studio V We lose track of time wandering
between sleepy squares and petting stray cats, with only the setting sun and meditative call to prayer echoing off Stone Town’s coral brick walls to remind us to head home.
MAMA KNOWS BEST Close to Stone Town is tourism co-operative Mamas of Zanzibar, which offers henna workshops and cooking classes (bookable via Attitude; a half-day cooking class costs $100 per person). Founder Maskat lived in Matemwe for 10 years and, prior to starting the Mamas, had a 15-year career in hotel sales and marketing. As we sit on vibrant mats etched with a Swahili greeting, she tells her story. “After my divorce, I was unemployed and had lots of time to get to know my neighbours’ stories and issues. I had an idea of how we could support each other – to give tourists the culture of Zanzibar through women’s eyes. We’re a group of 20-25 ladies, and everything that is contributed goes directly to us.”
44 11 JUNE 2026 We lose track of
time, with only the setting sun and call to prayer reminding us to head home
Zanzibar’s conservative culture makes it tough for women to earn an independent living, and many of the Mamas had to ask their husband’s permission to join, but Maskat’s initiative has a healthy waiting list. Eight women are present today,
sporting identical blue kanga headscarves, which they wrap us in ahead of a visit to Chuini market. I’m paired with Salma, a former Stone Town guide. We check off the items on our shopping list, inspecting a veritable cornucopia of fruits and vegetables, until we reach the most important of all – coconuts. “You don’t want the ones with too much water inside, as they are very young,” Salma tells me. I shake them about
a little but my ear isn’t attuned to the sound, so I shoot Salma a defeated look and she steps in. A short but bone-shaking tuk-tuk ride takes us back to the kitchen, where we set about grating coconuts, grinding spices and mashing tomatoes for a lunch of spiced stews and samosas, our speed controlled either by Maskat’s young son, reminding us to go “pole, pole” (slowly, slowly), or the Mamas singing traditional Zanzibari chants to speed us up. Kneading dough is more within
my comfort zone than coconuts, so I sit with Muskat and shape it into rounds while she shares her hopes of opening another Mamas of Zanzibar base. “I know people from Matemwe who can benefit from being part of the Mamas. It’s hard work, but it empowers them – it uplifts them,” she says, looking around at a kitchen full of women helping women. I’ve learnt so much about this storied island, but it still has one more surprise in store. On our final night, we dine on Matemwe
E The POZ spa has opened, offering single and double massage cabins so clients can indulge in all-natural treatments by the sand.
E Eight Beachfront Villas are now available, each one allocated its own reserved beach cabana.
Attitude’s beach, and with only candles to light our table, I see the constellations in breathtaking clarity. We have enjoyed plenty of eye-opening conversations with the people of Zanzibar, but this dazzling night show of stars – with Orion’s Belt at the heart of it – stuns us into reverent silence. TW
BOOK IT
Kuoni sells a seven-night, half-board stay in a Swim-Up Villa from £2,175 per person, based on two sharing. Includes luggage, transfers and Ethiopian Airlines flights from Heathrow departing in November.
kuoni.co.uk
travelweekly.co.uk
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