DESTINATIONS INDIAN OCEAN | ZANZIBAR
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Maasai staff member; Matemwe Attitude’s Chakula Chakula restaurant; view of Mnemba Island; local fishermen
UNDER THE SEA North of the hotel lies diminutive Mnemba Island, a popular snorkelling area and conservation site. The resort’s on-site marine biologist Shadrack led us on a snorkelling trip to Mnemba with local operator One Ocean Dive Centre, boarding a traditional Zanzibari dhow to sail over to the island. “Those fishermen you saw from the hotel have been here for years – they know where to go to find the current,” says Shadrack as the boat glides across glass-like waves. He tells us to expect plenty of fish, but adds that increased construction from large-scale resorts in the area has compounded threats against the native turtle population. He says: “Sea turtles laid eggs in Mnemba, but you can’t see any now. I’ve seen six turtles in three years.” Indeed, there are no turtles today; however, I do see shoals of triggerfish, stonefish, scorpionfish
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and long, yellow trumpetfish, as well as a puffer fish huffing below. I also spy a starfish draped over a rock, its purple arms lolling off the edge of the coral. Feeling inspired, I shake my shoulders loose as I float in the sapphire waters.
Our next snorkel stop brings
us to a coral nursery, where local NGOs are growing healthy coral. It’s interesting to view the scene from above. Each grid is a different shape – whether star, turtle or flower – and the coral growth is starting to flourish. Reassuringly, sea creatures have set up camp here already: a batfish weaves between the rocks, while dories and sea snakes peek up to suss me out.
STONE TOWN Zanzibar’s past is as intriguing as its underwater world. Unesco- listed capital Stone Town was once home to spice (and slave) traders from the Arab world, Indian
Sea creatures
have set up camp: a batfish weaves between rocks, while dories and sea snakes peek up to suss me out
subcontinent and Europe, who each left their architectural mark on the Swahili port.
Our guide Mussawir stood out even amid the city’s hustle and bustle in a tall kofia cap and palm-frond-woven satchel, and soon set the tone for what became a refreshingly honest walking tour. “Before Zanzibar was famous for tourism, it was famous for three things: slavery, ivory and spice. If you didn’t have a slave, you probably were a slave,” he says.
We stop to fuel up on caffeine
from a coffee vendor, who we’re told is a local fixture. “This man is a third-generation seller. If he isn't selling coffee, the city simply won't drink it,” Mussawir quips. I thank him in Swahili while accepting my steaming little cup, and sip carefully. We spend hours in Stone Town’s shaded backstreets, admiring towering doors that are painted, studded and engraved to represent the families who once dwelled in these old buildings. Mussawir explains: “These remind us of Zanzibar’s heyday, when doors were seen as the ultimate symbol of status. Doors ascribed to your values and occupation.” The grandest entrance of all stands outside the Aga Khan Mosque, flanked with golden pillars and Gujarati inscriptions. “It’s the most well-maintained door on the island,” says Mussawir – though there are 30 other mosques, two temples and two churches in town.
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travelweekly.co.uk
PICTURES: Julien Pelletier; Studio V
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