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other aged cuts, and cooked them to buttery, campfire-scented soft- ness over wood? What if the chips were lacy, golden marvels, fried in duck fat? And wouldn’t it be a laugh to turn a dish of slow-roasted, buttered carrot nubbins into the delirious, richly caramelised proof of the existence of a higher power? Most of the dishes at the Devon-
shire answer all these hypotheti- cals and pack rigour, mischief and joyfulness into every bite. If there were slight blots
The Devonshire – a long-sim- mering, impossible dream of a freehouse and grill restaurant that [Oisín] Rogers and his co-founder, Flat Iron’s Charlie Carroll, have been plotting for almost 10 years – is truly about as good as pubs get. The zealous commitment
Jimi Famurewa experiences zealous commitment to detail at the Devonshire, London
to detail begins with the bread – butter-glossed dinner rolls that are skilfully teased out of metal dishes by roaming serv- ers. They were good on their own but even better (as a pass- ing Rogers suggested) deployed as an absorbent for the puddled
juices beneath baked scallops, crisped lardons of bacon and a sharp dousing of malt vinegar. There is a revelatory elegance
and restraint to that combina- tion; a wink towards chippy teas and scallop and bacon baps. And that sense of play, control and deceptive minimalism is all across the curlicued, handwritten menu that executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts has been working on since February. Wouldn’t it be fun if we brushed house-butch- ered rib-eye steaks and lamb chops with the rendered fat from
then they came in the form of a pleasant confit tomato tart starter scuppered by some- what unyielding pastry, and a creamed leek side dish where pointed old school subtlety had edged slightly towards domestic half-heartedness. But I will say that it was very early days. And also that, once more people have visited (thankfully, the race is on to open the larger, second floor dining room before the end of the year), they will realise that it isn’t really a place where minor disappointments can get much purchase. Particularly by the time a weightless scoop of choc- olate mousse, cleverly sprinkled with crunchable slivers of choco- late, has been set before you.
Speciality Food & Drink Show
21-23 January SEC Glasgow
Chilled & Frozen Confectionery Biscuits & Snacks Condiments & Preserves Drinks
Register now at
www.scotlandstradefairs.com
2024
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