THE FOUR SEASONS RESTAURANT AT SWINF EN HA L L
MIDWEEK FOUR FOR FORTY TASTING MENU
Considered to be one of Staffordshire’s finest eateries, Tina Thomas-Bassett went along to try Swinfen Hall’s new midweek four-course Tasting Menu priced at £40 and aptly dubbed Four for Forty!
Set in 100 acres of park land incorporating formal gardens, a private deer park, wild hay meadows and woodland, Swinfen Hall Hotel is a magnificent Georgian manor with 17 luxuriously-appointed bedrooms. Although a haven of peace and calm, it is just 30 minutes from Birmingham city centre and easily accessible via the motorway network.
My husband Adrian, daughter Katie and I were delighted to be invited to review Swinfen Hall’s new menu‘Four for forty’ in their highly acclaimed Four Seasons restaurant. Awarded 3 AA rosettes in 2015, it remains the only restaurant in Staffordshire to have achieved this accolade and continues to be a regular winner in the Taste of Staffordshire Awards and in the Staffordshire Tourism Awards.
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We arrived on sunny Thursday evening in September after having a busy week at work. Turning off the A38 we approached along a beautifully manicured drive, with the hall standing grand before, us splendid to the eye.
We all beamed huge smiles and said ‘now relax’. From the moment we all stepped inside the hall we did just this, we were greeted, socially distant of course, at reception, where there is an open log fire. The first thing we did was apply hand gel before we entered the comfortable lounge area to enjoy our pre-dinner drinks whilst we perused the menu to see what we were about to feast on.
The new Four for Forty menu, which is only available Tuesday to Thursday also has the option of a flight of expertly-paired wines, which we opted for after our waiter’s recommendation – this is one of the things that stand out, every member of staff is knowledgeable and passionate in their role.
We sat a while longer enjoying the atmosphere watching the deer in the meadow and noting how well spaced the seating areas were. Just subtle changes to assist with social distancing but there to help nervous people like myself feel very comfortable.
It was then time to move to the Four Seasons restaurant which is everything you would expect and more – full of Georgian grandeur and yet intimate and cosy at the same time. Soft music, candlelight and dark wooden paneling, well-spaced tables and high ceilings and beautiful rural views.
Our courses arrived and each time we were served we were delighted by not only the description of the food before us but also the description of the wine that had been expertly paired to complement the food. And complement it did.
Our first course was sweet and sour Heritage tomatoes served with goats’ curd and lovage. The lovage is in the form of an emulsion and an oil. Crisp pearl barley offers texture.
This was paired with Reserve Sauvignon Semillon Domaine du Grande Mayne. It’s a 2016 vintage, so starting to develop a little richness naturally. The oak adds some richness as well. Lovely with the sweet and sour tomatoes, Sauvignon is also a nice match with goat’s cheese, so worked well with the goats’ curd.
Our second course was pan-fried monkfish in yeasted butter. With cauliflower elements in a puree as well as some roasted florets. Capers offer texture and acidity to the dish. Crimson grape offer sweetness and are used to make a delicious sauce.
This was paired with ‘friendly’ Gruner Veltiner, Lauren V 2015. The richness to this wine is a lovely match to the richer/sweeter elements in this dish. It is also a weighty enough wine to hold up to a ‘meaty’ style of fish.
Our third course of cherry hoisin glazed Barbary duck, served with turnips paired with The Crusher Pinot Noir Clarksburg 2016. This has bags of lovely rich Californian red fruit which is naturally great with duck.
And finally last but not least, course four dessert, tropical fruit pavlova - a beautiful soft meringue with compressed mango and pineapple. Fig leaf sourced from the estate gave a lovely coconut flavour offering a pina colada-style edges to this gorgeous dessert.
Paired with a fine dessert wine, Moelleux Domaine du Grand Mayne 2017, which had the sweetness you want, but also freshness which is a nice complement to the tropical fruits.
We finished our splendid ‘Four for Forty’ with teas and coffees and smiles all round. The Four Seasons restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner and in addition to the midweek Four for Forty option offers a Prix Fixe à la carte menu as well as 6-course Tasting and Vegetarian Tasting menus.
Swinfen Hall Hotel, Swinfen, near Lichfield
swinfenhallhotel.co.uk T: 01543 481494
LIVE24-SEVEN.COM
WINING & DINING SWINF EN HAL L HOT E L
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