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Beef it up BBQ-style


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GRILLING outdoors and eat- ing al fresco with friends means happy days for Jonny Nichol- son, chef-owner of The Sail Loft in Southwold. When the weather is hot,


beautiful sunshine blazing and cloudless blue skies, it’s time to break out the charcoal. Simple and gourmet rarely go


hand-in-hand, well for most chefs, but when it comes to bar- becuing and spoiling your guests with a summery treat, you need to do so little to serve up won- derful local steak, transformed


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the right local, seasonal ingredi- ents, in this case good beef, or should I say very good beef and a great butcher. I am lucky to have one of those, Jeremy Thickitt, who supplies both my restaurants at The Sail Loft and at The Bell in Saxmundham. He grazes his own happy herds of heritage breed cattle on lush pas- ture next to the Suffolk Wildlife Trust’s Darsham Marshes near Yoxford, and you can find his aged, marbled beef at his nearby butchery counter at the family’s Emmerdale Farm Shop. Alterna- tively visit their other shops, Clarke’s of Bramfield or Creasey’s of Peasenhall, all part of this quality third generation butchery. Wherever you live, I really


urge you to visit a local, inde- pendent butcher for all your meat but especially beef, you won’t find properly matured, farmyard beef in your local supermarket. With little excep- tion, they all buy their livestock too young, don’t hang it long enough and cut it too thin. Local independent butchers are ideal, you get free, wise advice and exactly what you want. In this case, you can ask for a nice fat steak - I often cook a big piece, perhaps two inches deep and


then carve it for my guests. That way it can be griddled well on all sides, charred to crusted, savoury perfection on the out- side but still enjoyed it at its best inside, cooked rare to medium- rare, juicy and flavoursome. Now this is quite pink for some people but if you can get over the bloodiness, you will have the maximum tenderness and fla- vour. If, however, you want to eat it medium or even well-done, then quickly brown it well on each side and then put it into a 180c oven to finish cooking to your liking, that way it won’t become leathery on the outside. But you have to accept it does toughen as you cook it more. My personal favourite is rib-


eye steak, it has great marbling and flavour. You do have to trim it as you eat it but it’s worth the fuss for that superb taste, it’s seriously recommended. A clas- sic sirloin is the easy choice, still juicy and halfway for flavour. Rump steak is the best on a bud- get, but cooked more than medi- um-rare, it’s ruined basically. If money is no object and you want soft, fat-free steak, push the boat out and invest in fillet steak, but to be honest, it doesn’t taste of much and hardly worth eating. There are lots of other obscure


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money by suggesting much tast- ier, toothsome pieces of beef to grace your grill bars, with inter- esting names like featherblade, bavette, skirt and hanger. In terms of which barbecue to


cook on, there are many helpful websites to help you choose. Gas is more reliable and


quicker to start cooking on than charcoal, you have to wait a good 30 – 45 minutes before you start but it does make it more of an occasion, full of atmosphere and smells. A good friend grid- dles in a chargrill pan inside a wood-fired clay oven, that really gives flavour and a sense of culi- nary cabaret. Here are my top ten tips for


great barbecued steak: 1. Safety first - a handy


hosepipe or bucket of water and lots of sun cream. And no tiddly chefs! 2. Make sure the grill bars are


very hot first and if using coals, make sure they are mostly white not still glowing red. 3. Lightly oil the meat (not the


barbecue) and then season well at the last minute so the beef doesn’t dry out. 4. After you have browned the


meat on one side, turn it over and sprinkle it with a dry spice mix for added flavour. Repeat on the other and then continue cooking slower in a cooler part of the bar- becue (keep one side on a lower heat or less loaded with char- coal). 5. Cook thicker steaks and


then carve them in vertical slic- es, you will get juicier results. 6. A herb butter or a creamy


sauce such as peppercorn and brandy really adds to the flavour for a special occasion. Or if you like it more Tex Mex, how about a zingy, spicy chilli salsa. 7. Marinating the meat in advance also enhances the end result – try a dollop of French mustard, a tablespoon or two of Worcestershire sauce, chopped- up thyme or rosemary sprigs, lots of black pepper and a drizzle of rapeseed oil, whisked togeth- er and massaged in before chill- ing for a good few hours before- hand. 8. If cooking over charcoal,


adding wood chippings on the hot coals as you grill, will add a smokier, fragrant taste. 9. If you love barbecued ribs


like me, dry marinade them in spices, slow bake them in your preferred BBQ sauce in the oven ahead of time and then finish them outside on the grill. 10. For the best sausages,


poach them first in simmering water for 10 – 15 minutes whilst for safe, moist chicken thighs and drumsticks, roast them foil- covered in a medium oven until cooked through and then take them out to your barbecue. It is lovely to be outside,


enjoying the great British sum- mer, but do keep all your loved ones, especially young children and pets, safe and away from the barbecue area…


Enjoy! Jonny


Jonny Nicholson, Chef –


Proprietor, The Bell At Sax’ The Sail Loft, Ferry Road,


Southwold, IP18 6HQ. Our beachside café-bar-restaurant, proudly using local, seasonal, Suffolk ingredients – find us by Southwold’s dunes near the campsite and lifeboat station. Book for our daily specials: Monday Madness – two courses for £10; Curry-tastic Tuesday; Wednesday Burger Bonanza; Friday Steak Night W: www.sailloftsouthwold.uk T: 01502 725713.


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