STYLE ICON


Elegance of Sir Hardy Amies


El The By Robin Dutt


“DEAR BOY, YOU CAN DO ANYTHING WHEN YOU HAVE STYLE.” THESE WERE practically the very first words said to me by Sir Hardy Amies on the occasion of my first interview with him. And, although the master has departed this world for over a decade and a half, it seems that if you regard the label he established in 1945, his spirit is very much present. The house today would please him, given its contemporary approach to streamlined tailoring and a policy of no shocks or fuss. Honest clothes, one might call them in a basic palette of most men’s “call to civilian arms” colours such as navy blues, charcoals and blacks. Of course, there is the occasional and tasteful diversion, be it a seasonal hue or a striking check, but Sir Hardy detested loud clothing, believing that, as he so rightly observed, a man should choose his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care – and then forget all about them. Sir Hardy was however, in his character, not one to shy away from the often blatantly


outspoken. His clothes may have been smooth and simple but his observations on what he saw as the parlous state of design were strident and glacial. Naturally, there are differences in the approach to the Amies message of today. It would be unreasonable not to be so. But in essence the template has changed very little and the source remains the inspiration – clothes to perform elegantly without fanfare. The Savile Row shop echoes the clean lines of today’s suits and coats and there is a chic insouciance when it comes to the casual or weekend items. Bags and accessories, especially in fine leather, continue the story. And the price points are realistic. Just doors away, 14 Savile Row was the site of the original house which sold couture, bespoke and ready to wear for men and women and was a very different affair, very much enshrining the edict of a classic London or Paris couturier – gilt mirrors and chandeliers – the constant backdrop to so many salon shows where models carefully chosen for their understanding of the Amies hallmark would parade for ladies “d’une age certain” and their daughters would assess the collections


46 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE oquent


IMAGES PA IMAGES, HARDYAMIES.COM


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