REVOLUTION A GENDER


Nina Penlington outside Gieves and Hawkes where she is senior bespoke cutter


S A V I L E R OW’S N E W O R D E R


Roderick Gilchrist meets the women who are making their mark on this historic corner of London


THERE’S NO DENYING DAISY KNATCHBULL CERTAINLY KNOWS HOW TO MAKE an entrance. When she arrived in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot last year, a highlight of the British summer season where, by tradition, the ladies are gowned in their finest frocks and extravagant hats, Daisy, ever the fashion rebel, created history by becoming the first woman to wear morning dress, black tail coat, pinstripe trousers and top hat, finished, in larky style, with open toed gold heels. It’s fair to say Daisy’s androgynous costume, beautifully hand made by Huntsman of Savile


Huntsman’s Daisy


Knatchbull, left, caused a stir in the Royal


Enclosure at Ascot last year when she


arrived in immaculate morning dress


Photo: Richard Young


Row where she works as communications director, caused a sensation, not least in the Royal Box where Prince Philip was seen to enjoy it almost as much as the racing. Huntsman, one of the great citadels of patrician gentlemen’s tailoring in Savile Row, a bastion of understated conservative taste and heritage since 1849, had rarely received such favourable media attention, putting them before a new younger audience, with élan and humour, which otherwise might not have given them a thought. Daisy is in the vanguard of a cadre of brilliant young women who are redefining the male dominated world of tailoring in Savile Row, operating discreetly but with panache, at every level of seniority and achievement; some like Daisy, skilfully moulding public opinion, others, such as Nina Penlington a few doors down from Huntsman at Gieves and Hawkes where she is the senior bespoke cutter, making suits of rare quality. Add to this wave bringing fresh attitudes and new blood to the world of bespoke tailoring the brilliance of Master Tailor Kathryn Sargent, late of Savile Row, now with her own emporium in nearby Brook Street, where David Beckham and royalty go to be measured for the look they seek, Anda Rowland, proprietor of the distinguished House, Anderson and Sheppard, Carolyn Springett, CEO of New and Lingwood, among many other female designers, cutters,


SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 41


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