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LIVE24SEVEN // Wining & Dining R E S TAURANT R E V I EW - THE ROYAL OAK , ANDOV E R S FORD The Locals Pub


Nigel Aplin Dines at The Royal Oak, Andoversford - I like a pub with locals. I like a local pub with locals rather than a local gastro pub without locals. Locals are the difference between a pub being cosy, friendly and authentic rather than synthetic, clinical and themed.


Like natives, locals can be unpredictable, even wild, but truly reflective of the character of their ‘local.’ In a recent posting on TripAdvisor, The Royal Oak in Andoversford was described as ‘Very friendly including the locals. Not a cross word or expletive between anyone’.


Another reviewer wrote ‘There was a mixture of people having a quiet drink, a bite to eat, a game of pool or darts... it was a refreshing change to find a friendly, proper pub that happens to do very good food, but is welcoming to all (vs another gastro-pub). Prices were reasonable and food excellent.’


Who am I to argue with the flock of avid amateur reviewers that make TripAdvisor what it is, for they are right. The Royal Oak is an excellent country village, local pub where you can pot black in one room and shrimp in the other.


I have often passed by on winter lunchtimes and popped in for their venison faggots, truly warming and a robust favourite. They have an interesting blackboard which lists what is in season month on month and what their daily speciality pie filling is. Burgers too are a speciality with anything from vegetarian comprising grilled mushrooms, red peppers, caramelised onions and halloumi to BBQ burgers with beef, BBG pulled pork and smoked cheddar. For those favouring the traditional, there is also Gloucester Old Spot gammon steak and Cotswold beef rump steak.


Being a reasonably warm spring evening I was seduced by roasted heritage tomatoes with pickled shallot, mozzarella, baby gem lettuce, olive crumb and homemade salad cream. Refreshing and indeed, redolent of freshly harvested produce, this was a good choice as was a very smooth glazed duck liver pate with bacon and cheese scones with cider chutney and smoked sea salt.


Being a trencherman of Cotswold country pubs, expect the size of the portions to match and you certainly won’t go away hungry. More of a winter dish and I know the menu changes in step with the seasons, the braised ox cheek with rosemary dumpling and glazed root vegetables and onion gravy was another solid and robust offering with a tantalisingly sweet perfect dumpling.


Mixed shellfish pasta with garlic, shallot and white wine, cream and parsley sauce was another dish not to go away hungry on and would satisfy anybody looking for a pasta dish with a seafood twist.


Being the only one with a little room left [where were the locals when you really needed them?!] I enjoyed grilled pineapple, rum and raisin ice cream, spiced rum caramel and toasted coconut.


Still an absolute retro as taste goes, I would love to have tried an Irish liqueur coffee with Irish whiskey or French with cognac but there were wheels outside so a tot up of a very sensible and reasonably priced bill was in order with change enough to buy the locals a cheeky round of drinks; compulsory in these parts!


The Royal Oak, Gloucester Rd, Andoversford, Glos GL54 4HR Tel: 01242 821426www.theroyaloakcotswolds.co.uk


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