A recent sojourn up the coast explored another


of the state’s central coast jewels, the picturesque seaside community known as Morro Bay just minutes from San Luis Obispo. The predominant feature are the vast beaches stretching to the north and west of the city, which make it the ideal location for oceanside activities. Beaches that easily rival the famed expanses of sand to the south, though the endless summers may be a bit rarer, due to a persistent chill that lingers year round. The bay’s most striking contrast is the famed Morro Rock, a 576-foot, volcanic plug jutting from the beach and harbor. One in a series dubbed the Nine Sisters, who wander inland on their familial trek. Each forming as earth’s crust moved across a volcanic “hot spot,” much like those forming the Hawaiian Island chain. Unseasonably warm and inviting weather greeted us, as we pulled into Morro Bay on a Friday afternoon. To say that the village is quaint may seem reductive, but for someone who grew up in an even smaller, more-quaint Wisconsin fishing village, the descriptor is an honest one. Reminiscent of a time gone by, the pace of life slows in this seaside setting. The difference is quite remarkable and the pull of bucolic, hometown memories was immediate and powerful. There are many options for accommodations


and much to our luck, we ended up landing at 456 Embarcadero Inn & Suites. A completely renovated 32-room hotel perfectly situated on the waterfront’s edge overlooking the bay, the hotel has stunning views of the water, sand dunes and Morro Rock just beyond. Added bonus: exterior balconies for each room—a perfect place to languish—sip- ping morning coffee or sunset glasses of wine... perfection. One of Morro Bay’s great surprises, aside from


being able to enjoy its low-key ambiance, is the richness of the local restaurants, with several excellent options available and all within walking distance. Though you’ll want to bring a sweatshirt or sweater for the evenings, because the tempera- ture does drop significantly and as warned by the locals, it’s a year-round phenomenon. Windows on the Water was the bucolic setting


for the first evening’s meal and Chef Neil Smith’s commitment to locally-farmed produce and seafood, as well as sustainably raised livestock, makes the menu a wonderfully fresh and flavorful adventure. Cayucos Ocean Rose Abalone and Pan- zanella Salad for starters, with entrees comprised of Local San Dabs and Niman Ranch Pork Ossobuco,


left us utterly sated. A striking Kenneth Volk “SMC,” 2012, Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, made the evening perfect. Saturday began with breakfast at the


hotel, offered “continental” and free of charge each morning. After such a heavy meal the night before and indulgent waffles for the morning, exercise seemed a wise choice. Farmer’s Kites & Surreys set us up with beach cruisers and we pedaled off for a two-hour ride up the wind-swept beaches and around the magical Morro Rock... nature at its finest. The ride helped to justify the next indulgence: Champagne Brunch on the Chablis, a 50-foot, two-story riverboat that glides along the protected waters of beautiful Morro Bay Harbor. Annie, the vociferous owner, runs a tight ship along with several family members. Sausages, ham, scal- loped potatoes, salads, vegetarian frittatas, fresh fruits, homemade baked goods, an omelet station, fresh waffles, along with free-flowing Champagne and mimosas. Let’s just say we were very relaxed by the end of the three-hour cruise. More indulgence followed with a wine tasting overlooking the embarcadero at Chateau Mar- gene, a local boutique micro-winery. With Brandon Rivers at the helm, the luxury Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends were as delightful as Brandon’s repartee. Dinner at another of Morro Bay’s gems came


the


after a languorous rest on our sunny balcony (Yes, more food). Dutchman’s Seafood House, also on the embarcadero, is a seafood treasure trove owned since 1968 by the Van Beurden family. Quality, home cooking is the fare and seafood en force, is on the menu. The fish and chips is out of this world and my friend indulged in the Cioppino (seafood stew). Based on how quiet his side of the table became, I’d say he was a happy camper. After a blissful night’s sleep lulled by the distant


roar of the Pacific’s surf (and more morning waffles), another round of exercise was in order. Central Coast Outdoors fitted us with kayaks and gear as we set off to explore the 800-acre Morro Bay Estuary Natural Preserve. The “back bay” as they call it, is home to more than 250 species of land, sea and shore birds, including dozens of endangered species. Great blue herons and snowy egrets pep- pered the estuary, along with California’s abundant barking sea lions. Our tour guide Craig spun engaging stories, filled with knowledge about the region. My personal favorite during the paddle were the large, far-reaching sand dunes—a landscape


that dominates the


outer edge of the bay and estuary—foreign and otherworldly.


Time for more food! A local landmark started


in 1986 by Cal Poly graduate Dawn Borst, the Bayside Cafe, became hugely popular to locals and visitors. The food is a delight, but don’t be late when hostess Lori calls your name from the wait list... She’ll not hesitate to loudly announce your tardiness to anyone else within earshot! It was such a fun experience and the service and stories from longtime Bayside waitress Lee, kept us smiling the entire time. A nap and then off for more wine! Appetizers


and wine tastings, as presented by STAX Wine Bar, filled our mid-afternoon journey and our “flight” was filled with bubbles—of the sparkling wine, prosecco, cava and Champagne varietal. I adore sparkling wines and this did not disappoint: Tobin James’ Paso Robles Dreamweaver, Italy’s Valdo Prosecco Brut, Montsarra Cava from Spain, Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate Brut and Graham Beck Brut Rose from South Africa, served with a Crostini ala Portobello. I was in heaven. A 7 p.m. reservation at Dorn’s Original Breakers


Cafe on Market Street, just above the Embarcadero followed another long walk along the bay. Opened in 1942, the restaurant has a rich history in the area, offering excellent food with hands-down the best views of the bay, Morro Rock and harbor. Soft hues, dim lighting and candles set the mood for an evening of great conversation and even better food. All in all, I highly recommend Morro Bay’s delights for the LGBT traveller. The tourism board made it clear that they were courting the category and based on the number of LGBT couples and families we met during the visit, I’d say their outreach has been successful. It’s a short, half day’s drive and absolutely worth


the miles driven. If you need a moment to slow your pace and enjoy life, Morro Bay and its many, surrounding enticements is the place to breath in life’s many delights.


For more information on the area’s many offerings and help making plans to visit, go to morrobay.org.


MAY 2016 | RAGE monthly 37


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