Strip, then solder
Tere are many different wire strippers out there but I use the Klein 1004 strippers. Tey are small for tight spaces and have a set screw to help avoid cutting wires. In this order, identify the wire, strip it back and use a pick or test probe lead to lance the strands. Strip and thread your harness wire through the hole, twist the wire around and then apply solder to ensure the most solid connection. Wrap each connection individually with a good electrical tape and secure with a zip tie for added insurance against possible tape failure due to extreme temperature changes.
Keep it twisted
When making any data or can bus connections it is important to maintain the twisting in the OEM harness as well as your harness wires connecting to these points to retain their interference rejection prop- erties. Tese connections should only ever be soldered and under no circumstance should they ever be t-tapped or cut and butt connected. Any of these types of connections add resistance and will affect the signal sent across the entire circuit.
Tie up and ground well A proper ground is imperative as well. Always ground
your electronics to a solid part of the vehicle with the paint scraped away, not into the dash brace. Te structure of the dash is raw metal but it is only connected to the vehicle at the ends over the painted surface of the chassis which subjects it to a weaker return path to the battery’s nega- tive terminal. Also, tie up all wires out of the way of moving parts to avoid interference with moving parts inside the dash such as steering column shafts and HVAC servos.
Solid and serviceable Tis is what the finished product of a remote start should
look like. Everything is neat and tied up so the system is serviceable. All modules are attached and relays screwed up to prevent any unwanted rattling while the vehicle is in operation.
58 Mobile Electronics January 2014
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