Europe & Mediterranean Malta’s capital gains
Malta’s capital city Valletta is gearing up for a year of cultural celebrations in 2018, when it will be an official European Capital of Culture. Katherine Lawrey visited to find out what’s in store
Valletta’s climate will allow many 2018 cultural events to be held outside
I
f Carlsberg made culture, it would look like Valletta. As far as historical cities go, the Maltese capital is one of the best in Europe. It is small, but
beautifully formed, occupying a spit of land overlooking Malta’s Grand Harbour, one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. The urban area spans one kilometre by 650 metres, has about 6,000 residents and is wall-to-wall with baroque buildings. Many were built by the Knights of the Order of St John, who held power from 1530 to 1798. Even though the city was heavily bombed in the Second World War, post-war reconstruction was faithful to the city’s heritage style. With a varied cultural programme already established in such a dramatic setting, it’s a smart choice for a European Capital of Culture.
Extending borders Valletta’s designated year is not until 2018, but like the Olympic Games, the preparation and legacy are as important as the main event. To earn the title, Valletta had to submit a bid that included cultural development and legacy for all of Malta. When I meet project coordinator Karsten Xuereb in Valletta, he tells me: “Being a European Capital of Culture is about having a special cultural programme, over and above what’s on offer in any other year.” In contrast to 2014 title-holder Umea in
Sweden, which is promoting itself as the most northerly capital of culture, Valletta is drawing on its geographical location as one of the most southerly capitals, and the related climatic and cultural selling points.
below. Apart from the introduction of cruise ships and a few millionaire-style yachts into the harbour, the view has barely changed in 300 years. It extends across the water to the three cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, their palaces, churches and forts even older than those in Valletta. From the gardens, it’s a short walk to
St John’s Co-Cathedral was built by the Knights of the Order of St John between 1573 and 1578
Xuereb says: “We have the open spaces and the climate to stage events outside year- round and, with our North African and Middle Eastern influences, we can help extend European borders.” In the years between now and 2018,
tweaks will be made to annual events on the calendar, such as Malta Fashion Week and the White Night Festival and in 2015 there will be a trial-run of a pageant using all the harbours around Valletta, inspired by the Thames’s Diamond Jubilee pageant. By 2016 much of the programme will be finalised. Many of the events will be free, as is Capital of Culture tradition, and a focus on arts, dance and music will allow the events to transcend language barriers.
Knight time Valletta’s preparations for a year in the spotlight are already bringing benefits to visitors. Many buildings are having a facelift and 24-hour ferry connections in and out of
the city are planned. Local guide Darrell Azzopardi shows me around the city’s architectural masterpieces. Many public and administrative buildings are former Knights’ residences. We start by taking in the views from Upper Barrakka Gardens. These were built as a peaceful retreat for the Knights but the location was deliberately chosen so they could keep an eye on the harbour
Other future European Capitals of Culture
2014: Riga, Latvia; Umea, Sweden 2015: Mons, Belgium; Plzen, Czech Republic 2016: Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain; Wrocław, Poland 2017: Aarhus, Denmark; Paphos, Cyprus 2018: Leeuwarden, Netherlands; Valletta, Malta
St John’s Co-Cathedral. Don’t be fooled by the plain exterior. The dazzling interior is coated in gold and rich colours. You can’t put a price on it – especially as it houses an original Caravaggio, the Beheading of St John the Baptist. We move on to the Grandmasters Palace, the seat of government, first used by the Knights, then the British and now Malta’s president. We look at the art and armour on display, while Azzopardi tells me more about the Knights, and how only men of very noble birth came to be knights. “It also helped to be ugly,” he jokes as we pass down the hall lined with their portraits. Parliament currently resides here but it is due to move to a modern building designed by architect Renzo Piano, famous for his work on the Pompidou Centre in Paris and London’s The Shard. His contributions in Valletta also include an open-air theatre and the renovation of the city gate. It’s an exciting time to be in Valletta. The
city is drawing on the traditions of the past, and looking forward too. Put Valletta in your diary for 2018 – it’s time to make a date with culture.
n Find out more on the Malta Tourism Authority stand (EM1550)
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